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Thread: Using Styrene, Styrene Tips and Tricks

  1. #1
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    Using Styrene, Styrene Tips and Tricks

    Hey guys id like to use styrene for a project but i've never used it before. how am i able to glue styrene together so its strong? is styrene strong? i think ive seen people use it to make there own truck bodies, what type of styrene would i use for doing this kinda work? thanks alot for the help!


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    I've wondered about using styrene myself and would love to see something about it too.


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    Me 3.
    Never used it.

    Scratch that, I love to use it after I tried!

    Last edited by Crankbait; 01-01-13 at 12:08 AM.

  5. #4
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    I REALLY want to try some work with it. So many things I want to do. I want to learn to braze too.


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    RC Studio Gopher Flex's Avatar
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    my brother used it all the time mostly for shoves axes ext..
    he would use supper glue but it doesnt hold up very good on things like his the body.
    Couldn't really think of anything else to glue it together.


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    There is a glue called Pro weld. It will melt the plastic together giving it a really good bond when doing this. If you want to bend the styrene you can use a hair dryer to form the stuff pretty good, a heat gun works as well but you can melt stuff faster. Hope this little bit of info helps out.


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    I used Plastruct Bondene for "welding" styrene together:



    Be warned that it smells awful! If you are going to work with this kind of cement, make sure to have proper ventilation in your area and that you are wearing a mask so you will not inhale the fumes.

    Another thing is to make sure that you NOT get anything of the substance to your skin! This is a very strong adhesive and it will bond to your skin. The bottle has a lot of warning labels, so make sure to follow them accordingly for safety.

    I start out by lining up the pieces that needs to be bonded:



    I then brush on a small amount of the cement to the joint the two pieces. I use the included brush applicator in the bottle and lightly spread some of the solvent along the joints:



    I then press the pieces together for 10-15 seconds to form the bond:



    The solvent is drawn into the joint by capillary action, melting and softening the two materials being joined together, effectively bonding them. Here is an image of the other side were you can see some of the melted styrene oozing out of the joint as I press down on it:



    After 10-15 seconds, the materials are bonded. Recommended curing time for a joint is around 30 minutes.

    If you do this properly, you will be able to achieve a very strong bond. You may want to add some strips of styrene along the joints for more reinforcement.

    I have a really old thread here where I tried to scratch build a scale body for my Traxxas Summit that you might want to read to see how I did it:

    http://www.rcsparks.com/forum/bashin...-summit-3.html

    Hope that helps!


  9. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Danboard View Post
    I used Plastruct Bondene for "welding" styrene together:



    Be warned that it smells awful! If you are going to work with this kind of cement, make sure to have proper ventilation in your area and that you are wearing a mask so you will not inhale the fumes.

    Another thing is to make sure that you NOT get anything of the substance to your skin! This is a very strong adhesive and it will bond to your skin. The bottle has a lot of warning labels, so make sure to follow them accordingly for safety.

    I start out by lining up the pieces that needs to be bonded:



    I then brush on a small amount of the cement to the joint the two pieces. I use the included brush applicator in the bottle and lightly spread some of the solvent along the joints:



    I then press the pieces together for 10-15 seconds to form the bond:



    The solvent is drawn into the joint by capillary action, melting and softening the two materials being joined together, effectively bonding them. Here is an image of the other side were you can see some of the melted styrene oozing out of the joint as I press down on it:



    After 10-15 seconds, the materials are bonded. Recommended curing time for a joint is around 30 minutes.

    If you do this properly, you will be able to achieve a very strong bond. You may want to add some strips of styrene along the joints for more reinforcement.

    I have a really old thread here where I tried to scratch build a scale body for my Traxxas Summit that you might want to read to see how I did it:

    http://www.rcsparks.com/forum/bashin...-summit-3.html

    Hope that helps!
    Wow thanks Danboard!! this will really help alot, although i have another question: what is a good thickness that would be easy to work with but still be strong enough on my truck so that it could survive rolls and scrapes. thanks for the help!

    soulguard likes this.

  10. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by LetsGoMuddin View Post
    Wow thanks Danboard!! this will really help alot, although i have another question: what is a good thickness that would be easy to work with but still be strong enough on my truck so that it could survive rolls and scrapes. thanks for the help!
    I went with the 0.40" (1mm) thick styrene sheets. I think it has enough thickness and stiffness (what she said). You can also get some styrene strips that you can use for reinforcing the joints.

    Hope that helps!



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  11. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Danboard View Post
    I went with the 0.40" (1mm) thick styrene sheets. I think it has enough thickness and stiffness (what she said). You can also get some styrene strips that you can use for reinforcing the joints.

    Hope that helps!

    LOL thats great! Thanks for the help!!


  12. #11
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    would like some opinions on this

    i have a local hobby store who deals just in trains and they have styrene out the wazoo and i want to make a rear bumper and hitch for my trailer do you guys think it will last if i use some of that super cement or what ever danboard was talking about?? also i wish to make a nice trailer to be pulled with my trail honcho and have a slash 4x4 on the back how would i go about doing thid trailer cheap strong and fun??

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    Quote Originally Posted by Travis97 View Post
    i have a local hobby store who deals just in trains and they have styrene out the wazoo and i want to make a rear bumper and hitch for my trailer do you guys think it will last if i use some of that super cement or what ever danboard was talking about?? also i wish to make a nice trailer to be pulled with my trail honcho and have a slash 4x4 on the back how would i go about doing thid trailer cheap strong and fun??

    Welcome to the forums Travis.

    I actually picked up a ton of styrene after I posted here and have to say it's addictive.
    An adhesive that I use and it works great, set's super quick and has a very low odor
    is Same stuff from micro mark- Same Stuff Professional Plastic Welder Refill, 2 fl. oz.

    LetsGoMuddin and firefighter3 like this.

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    I actually used styrene for the first time last week. Used it to build a custom mount for my Mini Revo's new SV2 speed control. Needed to mount it vertically beside the motor for clearance issues.

    Pretty easy stuff to work with, all i need now is a better method for heating it to form and shape it.

    LetsGoMuddin likes this.

  15. #14
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    Using Styrene, Styrene Tips and Tricks

    Quote Originally Posted by CameronH View Post
    I actually used styrene for the first time last week. Used it to build a custom mount for my Mini Revo's new SV2 speed control. Needed to mount it vertically beside the motor for clearance issues.

    Pretty easy stuff to work with, all i need now is a better method for heating it to form and shape it.

    Use a heat gun, should soften it nicely!

    LetsGoMuddin and firefighter3 like this.

  16. #15
    RC Studio Gopher CameronH's Avatar
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    i used a lighter the first time, worked just fine but blackened the styrene of course. And wouldn't come clean. If i do much more with this stuff a heat gun sounds like a decent investment.

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  17. #16
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    Heat guns do not cost that much, i got my 2 speed (Low/High) dewalt heat gun at home depot for like 40 dollars( American). Even if you dont use it that much you will be suprised at what you can use them for!

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    Quote Originally Posted by Euro_Driver View Post
    Heat guns do not cost that much, i got my 2 speed (Low/High) dewalt heat gun at home depot for like 40 dollars( American). Even if you dont use it that much you will be suprised at what you can use them for!
    I agree, I found a really nice one online and love it.
    They are great for heating Decals or stickers to remove them and leave no adhesive.
    Another great use is preheating the cylinder heads on nitro motors to make them start easier.


  19. #18
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    Using Styrene, Styrene Tips and Tricks

    I don't own a nitro but I want to one day

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  20. #19
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    I just bought a bunch of styrene for an upcoming project. I'm using .060 and I also bought Plastistruct plastic cement from RPP hobby. I'm using Bondo spot puddy as well.

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  21. #20
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    i used a metal dish rack for the trailer frame. its strong , cheap cuz it was going to be thrown out any way. just one idea.


  22. #21
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    what putty are peeps using for styrene????
    trying to find some on Towerhobbies.com thats suitable.
    3 sheets from my LHS will cost me $30....... bugger that!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!(he nce why i'm going through tower!)

    TowerHobbies.com | Squadron Green Putty Carded 2.5 oz
    how about this stuff????

    Last edited by Greenie; 03-12-13 at 12:41 AM.
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    I've used it in the past and works good.

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  24. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by firefighter3 View Post
    I've used it in the past and works good.
    sweet!!!! cause i know i will be sanding the bugger out of the boxes i want to make so they have some nice rounded edges, and i know i'll be making mistakes, so want to be able to "correct" them easily!!! LOL!!!


  25. #24
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    Thanks for the tips up above, I got myself a sheet of .040/1mm and a bottle of Testors cement and I'm now having a tricky but fun time building a new front bumper and grille for my Mu.


  26. #25
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    For styrene filler you can use baking soda mixed with super glue add a drop of food coloring to baking soda to make it easier for final sanding I have used this technique for years building model cars a medium viscosity glue works best just put some glue in your imperfection mix in baking soda immediately and let dry once dry sand to shape

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