First kit build (Tamiya TA-05 VDF)

**howse** · 01-21-12, 11:30

Hi,

This has been about 2 months of research looking at what kit I wanted to get for drifting, started with looking at TT01s then looked at belt vs shaft drive which led me to find info of the VDF.

Any advice is welcome

what I have so far....

Tamiya R34 Skyline Nismo body
Futaba 3pm-x with receiver
Tamiya TA05 VDF
Savox SC-1251MG
Hobbywing XERUN 10.5T/S3300Kv + 120A v2.1 ESC
Tamiya TA05 Aluminum Bulkhead x 2
Eagle Racing C-Hub 8° Camber 10° Caster Blue Tamiya
Eagle Racing Tamiya TA05 VDF CounterSteer Kit 1.84 Ratio Bolt on CS
Eagle Racing CVD Shaft 46mm 50°+ Steering Angle
3 Racing Titanium screw set
Tamiya front and rear Carbon fiber Damper stays
HPI T drifts

What i'm waiting for...

3mm offset chrome plated rims
Blue thread lock

what i still have to order....

lipo charger
2s lipo 7.4v 5000 mah hard case
Deans connectors

**Supporting RCSparks** · 01-21-12 11:30

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**Megatoys** · 01-21-12, 11:35

OOOHHHHH this is Gunna be fun to watch!!

---
I am here: http://maps.google.com/maps?ll=49.244170,-122.884967

**nolo148** · 01-21-12, 12:02

Very nice, the Tamiya ta05 VDF is a very nice car, I myself have one to with the 1.84 cs kit. As soon as this car is built your gonna have so much fun

**howse** · 01-21-12, 12:09

thanks for the comments

its killing me that i'm waiting on thread locker so i can start putting this baby together.

the hardest part will be getting a lipo battery as hobby shops here cater mostly to flight rcs, so ill have to find a place that will ship lipos to qatar.

I also need to save up a little for a decent lipo balance charger.

**boza** · 01-21-12, 2:35

that will be a pretty nice build, some really nice gear you got there!

**northwest4x4** · 01-21-12, 2:41

Cool that you picked a tamiya kit, how huch does the a counter steer for the tt-01d

**howse** · 01-21-12, 10:54

not sure for tt01,

if you can find it i think this is what you are looking for Active Counter Steer Unit for TT01 [STR077] - €29,87 : Race & Drift Japan

I have a tt01 as well, i'm just putting a locked diff in the rear and a one way in the front. for 50/50

hope this helps you.

**howse** · 01-22-12, 7:25

small update i found a lipo battery locally (7.4 2S 5200mAh 30C), it will do for now. also got some deans connectors as well as a small balance charger.

I'm very new to lipos i know the fire hazard with em hence the lipo bag, but can anyone suggest a safe balance charger that will also monitor voltage? i don't really have a voltage meter and figured a better charger would be best? the charger also has to work with 220 volt outlets as power here is like Europe.

**Azrayel74** · 01-22-12, 7:56

This looks like an awesome build... cant wait to see it going... ive been itching to build a Tamiya kit myself because ive heard so much good about them... wish i knew more about the drifting and on-roads though... still havent figured out the differences in the various TT-05 chassis... but still looks great man.. cant wait to see more

**Goblintinker** · 01-22-12, 8:06

Any of the thunder chargers are awesome they do all the standard lipo charger stuff plus they also have a temp gauge and plotting software .....and best of all they are cheap $44-55 to start

**howse** · 01-22-12, 8:36

haha awesome Goblintinker, i was just looking at a Thunder Power TP610C-ACDC Li-Po Charger/Balancer on ebay

Azrayel74 i'm not sure about all the TA05s myself, but i looked at em all and loved the look an reviews of the VDF more

**boza** · 01-23-12, 10:23

@Azrayel71 Here is some info about Tamiya chassis, hope it helps

TT-01's is a shaft driven car, has gear diffs front and back, pretty much a beginner chassis.

TB-01, TB02, TB03 series of chassis is a more advanced car. They generally include ball diffs and better parts. This is still a shaft driven chassis.

TA-01 - TA-06 This is the belt driven chassis lineup. The one that howse has is based on the very popular TA-05 but upgraded to a high-end Drift Spec chassis. Similar to the TB series, these two are sister chassis from each other, they share similar parts and design.

Then there are the TRF (Tamiya Racing Factory) series of cars, which is another world on its own.

**northwest4x4** · 01-23-12, 5:01

Can't wait to see some shot's of this biuld, and thanks for the tip

I looked at what your talking about the countersteer and I'm going with the rear diff. lock, but I don't know what a one-way is, and is it needed or not needed to get better drift out of the tt-01d, I know that the diff. lock will help all together but is it neccasory to have the one-way, I installed alum. shocks in the rear only and it lifted the rear end by 1/2 inch but if that wasn't the way it is the body would hit the ground so I think that it won't really affect the drift much.

**howse** · 01-23-12, 10:16

you can lock the diff you already have with some nitro fuel line or blue tac into the diff gears, i already did that but wanted to get the locked diff regardless just so i can swap them out if need be.

some people like the one way diff some people don't, i'm gonna try it with and without to see if i like it.

This is all new to me as well but some quick google searching gave me this...

Front one-way unit. A one-way removes the braking effect from the front end of the car by allowing the tires to freewheel under decelleration. This improves turn-in, but on a TT-01 with enough traction it will make oversteer come on even sooner than it already does. It's just not worth the expense.

A front one way will give you the slip and grip needed in order to switchback the car in nice tight S curves (oversimplifying this). Some will argue the use or necessity of a oneway and locked diff and they may have valid reasons that apply to how they are drifting. For example guys who "parking lot bash" with high speed long drifts, in this style interia will keep the car sliding, I can slide a brick at 35+mph.

But the ball game changes when you slide with a bunch of guys on a track or with team mates whos purpose it to slide in syn all around the layout, most will agree that a one way locked diff will yield the precise control you need to drift like this.

So the bottom line is you will find that you need to tune your car to a particular driving style and track layout. When I was a newbee I could not achieve the moves the other guys where doing with a oneway/locked diff setup and my loose front ball diff and tightened up rear ball diff. I followed the suggestion of a season drifter put in a one way and locked the rear and never turned back.

I got some 3 racing diff lock and one way, which also requires universal swing shafts from 3 racing as well. My tt01 will get a better face lift after my VDF is completed (3 Racing carbon fiber chassis/new electronics)

I should have my electronics for the VDF ready to go soon, I'm still waiting on one last part before i can start putting the chassis together.

**northwest4x4** · 01-24-12, 3:39

I remembered I had a tamiya pajero build and the kit came with a lock diff. opion and i installed it in the rear diff. and it fits like a glove, and I fixed the lift and the whole chassis is level now now I just hope that it works really good, and I hope to see that your tt-01 does get some t.l.c

**1330** · 01-24-12, 3:47

Oh man that is a sick chassis kit you have!

**howse** · 02-06-12, 11:28

alright; nuff waiting, last of the parts are in, lets get to dis.

had a pic of the rear 28T part of the eagle racing but for some reason it did not save on the camera ah well...

so far so good, not done with parts A bag but i been at it long enough for today, must say my first build the instructions are pretty easy to understand. The eagle kit not so much but i hope its ok, if not ill take it apart again no bigge.

**howse** · 02-07-12, 12:49

putting together the diff,

Parts A bag completed. (phew)

**howse** · 02-08-12, 11:04

on to parts bag B (and the rest of the eagle 1.8 racing kit)

getting the motor plate ready.

half done with it (and at this point i realized i forgot to put on the front eagle racing belt and put on the stock belt, doh!)

reinforcements

bag B completed

the rims!

**howse** · 02-10-12, 10:02

on to bag c,

Rear completed,

front arms with Eagle Racing C-Hub 8° Camber 10°

front completed,

bag c completed!

**howse** · 02-10-12, 10:06

on to bag D,

love this bag, really enjoyed putting together the shocks.

woot now to install electrics,

Bag D and electrics done! on to fine tuning.

**howse** · 02-10-12, 10:14

honestly even when I took the final pictures I am still messing around, used extra screws and nuts to complete the supports on the engine plate (the stock beam had to be removed for the CS mod) rotated the esc for a better fit, tided up the wires. I guess thats what its all about, playing an tinkering

setup reverse on the motor as well as lipo cutoff for 3.2volts

final pics (till i can find paint for the body)

**boza** · 02-10-12, 11:19

Nice, those VDFs always look good! How was the first drive?

**howse** · 02-10-12, 11:25

slow as i had little space, i'm at work now with a little more room to give it a go, first run at home was fun, remembered my servo was upside down with the steering reversed a quick google search fixed that problem with a simple change on the futaba 3pm.

first run at work showed great results and man CS lives up to its name of being hard! lol, also noticed i was only getting the inner tire wear, you can kinda see it with the last pictures from my home run, just little white rings on the tires, adjusted the arms to put more tire on the surface.

(quick cam pic)

**boza** · 02-11-12, 8:59

How much CS ratio do you have on it? It gets easier with practice. looks like you are running quite a bit of camber, time to sit down and tune the car

**howse** · 02-11-12, 9:36

with the calculator from your previous links its an 1.85cs, yeah lol need to figure out how to tune it more the C-Hub 8° Camber 10° are on it but i honestly have no idea. time to do more research!

also noticed with the steering, if one of the wheels is at its peak angle there is a bump when i rotate the wheels its only in one spot when i do a full rotation, this happens on both wheels when turned one way for one and the other way for the other. unsure whats happening.

**boza** · 02-11-12, 10:17

The bump at max angle is caused by your Universal Drive-shafts. If I am correct, those are stock Tamiya Drive-shafts, they wont be able to handle high angle. Just tune down your EPA on your remote so that it does not go past 4o to 45 degrees of steering angle (where ever it does not have that bump effect anymore). If you want large steering angle you will need new drive shafts, but since you are at 1.85, what you have now is enough.

**howse** · 02-11-12, 12:19

Hmm I do still have that eagle racing high angle drive shafts, haven't bothered to put em on yet. Ill set it up for surgery the weekend, till then I'll fix the settings on the remote like you suggested

I spent an hour or more today on a nice smooth indoor surface I still need a lot of practice but the vdf runs so awesome.

**Cbd5336** · 03-01-12, 2:58

Dude..
Are you from qatar?
Let's meet up someday and drift
Text me anytime 33558104 hafiz
saturday from 4pm to 7pm me and my offroad buddy bashed ant the scientific club
Come and meet us there man coz we've been searching for ep bashing buddy for sometime

**northwest4x4** · 03-01-12, 4:54

whats it like drifting with high heat, you do have desert like condishions, does the car drift better on ha hot sureface and does it make a different, here in the great north west we get rain most of the year and its really wet when it's not raining so it hard to drift out doors but when its wet the cars are like they re on ice, so what does the body of this car look like

**howse** · 03-02-12, 1:13

I'm not from Qatar, but moved to Qatar for work. the VDF I use very smooth floors like my home or the floors of the compounds pool floors where i live.

right now the surfaces are around what you would expect from a Canadian summer, around high 20s. The summers are very hot here with temps in the high 40s to which i have not drifted on yet, unsure if it would melt the tires or not

**Cbd5336** · 03-02-12, 3:41

Same here dude...
I noticed that your caster ( c hub ) is at negative
Are u sure that is the correct caster setup ?
Come tomorrow to the scientific club
I'll bring my vdf also, maybe we can exchange idea on the setup bro

**howse** · 03-02-12, 5:53

i don't have my body ready for the vdf yet, still need to order more paint, but ill drop by. what time?

**northwest4x4** · 03-18-12, 2:36

what did you decide to do for a body and what colors are in the forcast

**howse** · 03-29-12, 3:11

Sorry it took so long, since finding a track to have some fun with my slash and no surface in sight for my VDF I delayed it for a bit.

Thanks to a new friend in Qatar who also has a VDF (gooollld) I got a lot of good advice to help me figure out adjustments, like my poor front camber.

Anyways pics! I did get the body completed, my camera needs to be recharged so its just phone camera pics for now (sorry)

Northwest4x4: I went with Faskolor silver mixed with faskolor Charcoal to darken it a bit as well with a Charcoal backing.

Also what caused the delay, new work bench setup! yay!

**boza** · 03-29-12, 10:56

good choices for bodies, especially the R34

**howse** · 03-30-12, 1:55

my all time favorite cars are the Nissan R34, Silvia's (they all look good), 510, Z cars, and Toyota Supra's

**boza** · 03-30-12, 8:00

JDM Styles!!!

**howse** · 03-30-12, 11:14

ooo JDM styles supra is a good idea!

**boza** · 03-30-12, 9:43

mmmmmm.... Supra....

**howse** · 06-11-12, 11:49

woo I finally have a place to drift! a local drift competition is starting this Friday and they already made the track. In all the excitement i forgot to take a quick pick of the track. So. much. fun!

Its back to basics for me, 50:50 for now until I get used to the vdf, then back to the 1.84 cs...

Ill post some picks of the track tomorrow.

**northwest4x4** · 06-11-12, 6:02

thats sick to think that you have a silivia too I have one as well, love the colors as well you should look into tamiyas body kit add ons its 15.00 bucks for it and it will give you a tone of details

TowerHobbies.com | TAM54139 54139 Tamiya 1/10 Touring Car Body Accessory Parts Set

**howse** · 06-12-12, 12:56

Awsome, thanks for the info, yeah the Silvia is for the tt01, soon me and it will part ways but its going to a great home.

yay drift track!

Spent 3 hours non stop today just having fun, me with my 50 50 vdf and my friend with his 1.4 cs gold vdf, fun times!

**howse** · 06-16-12, 12:49

Drift Comp was yesterday, was a great time had by all. Wished they let us stay longer so we could drift more but Fridays here are like Sundays in Canada and they closed the Center after the competition was finished.

Saw a few HPI sprints, some HSP's, Tamiya TT-01's.....

Qatar Scientific Center is still the best place here if you want to have fun with your RC's, they have great On-road and off-road tracks.

The VDFs took 1st and 2nd, I placed 2nd and my friend placed 1st.

**xacony** · 06-19-12, 3:25

great chassis man! i also drive a vdf.
i run with 1.3 cs for better control at the competetions u should try it

in the netherlands it's alway a competition between the vdf and the yokomo drb

keep up the good work!

**howse** · 06-20-12, 5:19

thanks man! Love the VDF, My friends 1.4cs with a front one way was really fun when we added diamond tires from a friends drifter, they seemed to be the best tires for the tile flooring there, I see a 1.4 and a one way in my future for sure.

You have any advice for the steering chatter?

**nolo148** · 06-20-12, 4:21

Originally Posted by howse

thanks man! Love the VDF, My friends 1.4cs with a front one way was really fun when we added diamond tires from a friends drifter, they seemed to be the best tires for the tile flooring there, I see a 1.4 and a one way in my future for sure.

You have any advice for the steering chatter?

double jointed shafts or high angle cvds

**BushidoBR** · 05-08-13, 7:20

Originally Posted by howse

setup reverse on the motor as well as lipo cutoff for 3.2volts

Wuuuuut??? 3,2V cutoff on 2S?? You mean on each cell, right? I'm relatively new to RC, especialy with LiPos, but I've always set my cutoff to 2S in 6,4V... on a HK 60A...

**howse** · 05-13-13, 1:33

Haven't looked at this for awhile, yes each cell. The hobby-wing esc is set for voltage cutoff per cell.

Thread: First kit build (Tamiya TA-05 VDF)

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