finding out what motor i have.

[bumpin]

any way to tell which motor thjis is from the words written around the drive post? here are a couple pics let me know if you recognize it or know how to tell thanks.



the words are epic spec19 and japan written twice so i take it tha manufacturer is in japan. but there are no other labels please help if its possible thanks again.

[hpisavage]

Trinity EPIC Shock 19 hand wound motor ? Red RC – RC Car News

[Magnat007]

Epic made Armatures for a WHOLE series of motors.. Chances are as hpisavage pointed out it is from the Trinity racing series..

The coloring of the Endbell reminds me of a Komodo 19T..

If you can, Re-shoot the photo's with Macro mode on the camera activated.. This can usually be found with a Flower Symbol..


This will help the camera to focus on the object at close range.. Shoot the pictures then remember to turn it back off again once shot..

[bumpin]

Epic made Armatures for a WHOLE series of motors.. Chances are as hpisavage pointed out it is from the Trinity racing series..

The coloring of the Endbell reminds me of a Komodo 19T..

If you can, Re-shoot the photo's with Macro mode on the camera activated.. This can usually be found with a Flower Symbol..


This will help the camera to focus on the object at close range.. Shoot the pictures then remember to turn it back off again once shot..

thank you for the tip i couldnt figure out for the the life of me how to focus the damn thing lol

[bumpin]

macro mode such a better pic thanks magnat!
so is this brush all done?

here are a couple others i think this center rod is toast am i right?

[bumpin]

well o lost what i was doing lol

[bumpin]

oh yeah the motor worked after i cleaned it but after i checked the brushes and reinstalled them the motor wont turn under power. is it dead? or are those brushes too far gon to actually work ? if i replace them should it come back or is the comm too warn and misshapen to be used ? basically is this motor junk?

[Greenie]

dont know much about comm's, but for the price of a new set of brushes, i'd buy some and have a crack and see.
you might also be able to buy a new centre for it! but for the effort of that, would be quicker and probably cheaper to buy a new motor.....

I still say get a set of brushes and give it a go, worst case is you'll have a spare set of brushes for another motor!!!

[Magnat007]

Just purchase some new Brushes..(Laydown brushes) and Clean the com with a Green scouring pad.. or 2000 grit sand paper.. just to bring the copper look back to the comm..

Apply a bit of Bearing oil or Sewing machine Oil or 3 in 1 oil to the bearings on the can and she should fire back into life..

The lamination on the windings is a little blackened but I have restored worse..



The Arrows Point to the contact copper you need to clean on the comm...

[bumpin]

thanks guys i,ll try some brushes and a scotch brite and see what happens. worste that could happen is im out 4 bucks, and really i wouldnt be lol. spair parts is always good to have. the brush was so small that with the com wear it was actually angled slightly so the brush has an 85 degree or more angle on it. i bet it had some serious torque lol.
thanks again for all the helpful tips

[Magnat007]

The Epic 19T motors were awesome for drifting.
They had RPM's of around the 27000..(this is based on the Epic 19T I had dynoed)
They had great acceleration and when geared right a pretty darn high top speed

I am not sure its the sort of motor I would wack into an SCX10... but any Onroad or offroad buggy you want to have epic speed runs with !

[bumpin]

nice i was thinking of messing around on smoother surfaces like the lawn or driveway in the scx10 but for trail application i would need to go at least 27t right. if i did a 35t motor would that totally kill the speed factor i want to get maximum tire rotation when im wheeling with it . plus i want to be able to sling a bit of mud when time comes

[Magnat007]

I use a 35T.... When trailing, sometimes you need just that little bit more wheel control that a 35T can offer..
27T would be OK... but I definitely recommend the use of 35T motors for when you really want to tackle the tough stuff..

I have trialled using a 23T and the torque was just not available.. Or you would squeeze the controller to move about an inch and it would move about a foot..

It all depends on the type of terrain your going to climb...
If its a flat forest area where most of the trail has a small incline, something you can walk up without feeling it... then a 27T would be fine..
If its Rocky, Slippery and near Vertical... then a 35T is more where you want to be..
A trail rig should not go any faster then you can at a fast walking pace... Its hard to trail with an RC that goes too quick..
You cannot possibly react in enough time or plan your lines through obstacles when the rig is 30 metres ahead of
you. The maximum distance you would want the rig to be infront of you by is around 5m... Or 2 when the terrain gets rough..

So if your walking and Your SCX10 is blasting toward the horizon.. then you will be running after it..
Think of trailing as taking your SCX10 for walk.... not a jog...

[bumpin]

Just purchase some new Brushes..(Laydown brushes) and Clean the com with a Green scouring pad.. or 2000 grit sand paper.. just to bring the copper look back to the comm..

Apply a bit of Bearing oil or Sewing machine Oil or 3 in 1 oil to the bearings on the can and she should fire back into life..

The lamination on the windings is a little blackened but I have restored worse..



The Arrows Point to the contact copper you need to clean on the comm...

is it possible to use gun oil on the bearing in the poror? i cant find the sewing machine oil near me. i found 80ccs of it on ebay but i dont know how big that is. lol im american we dont understand the metric system!!! lol just want to make sure im not over paying is all. but if gun oil will work then i have plenty of that .

[bumpin]

I use a 35T.... When trailing, sometimes you need just that little bit more wheel control that a 35T can offer..
27T would be OK... but I definitely recommend the use of 35T motors for when you really want to tackle the tough stuff..

I have trialled using a 23T and the torque was just not available.. Or you would squeeze the controller to move about an inch and it would move about a foot..

It all depends on the type of terrain your going to climb...
If its a flat forest area where most of the trail has a small incline, something you can walk up without feeling it... then a 27T would be fine..
If its Rocky, Slippery and near Vertical... then a 35T is more where you want to be..
A trail rig should not go any faster then you can at a fast walking pace... Its hard to trail with an RC that goes too quick..
You cannot possibly react in enough time or plan your lines through obstacles when the rig is 30 metres ahead of
you. The maximum distance you would want the rig to be infront of you by is around 5m... Or 2 when the terrain gets rough..

So if your walking and Your SCX10 is blasting toward the horizon.. then you will be running after it..
Think of trailing as taking your SCX10 for walk.... not a jog...

lol that would be funny!! very true i prolly wouldnt enjoy myself if i had to run to keep up with the truck . plus i have my nitro buggy if i feel the need for speed any way . its gonna be hard to beat it into my head that offroading/trailing is way different from bashing. just like the real thing you cant hammer through the obsticles all the time. thanks for the tips. oh yeah can i buy just any brushes for the trinity or do they have to be specific for the potor? also are slotted racing brushes a good way to go? the motor is going into my rustler not my crawler oh one more if i go to a 45t would that be to slow to have fun on the trails? thanks again guys.

[Greenie]

from what i've seen and used(35t), 45t is on the verge of being a weee bit too slow, unless on 3s, not badly slow, thats a personal opinion

[bumpin]

thanks greenie ill prolly grab a 35t from rc4wd cause they are only 10 bucks so if i dont like it i have a spare just in case lol.