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1/8th Scale Hydro Build

Discussion in 'Boat Build Projects' started by Tombsy, Feb 7, 2014.

  1. Tombsy

    Tombsy Boat Racing Fanatic
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    One tool that I don't have that I probably should is a router, so I dont know a ton about whats available but if you had something sacrificial to cut on it would probably work pretty slick. I think there is someone on here that had a cnc router as well.
    But its really fast to cut them out roughly with a jigsaw and the sander trims it up to the lines in seconds.
    EB4424_1_Final-5x7_72dpi.jpg
     
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  2. Tombsy

    Tombsy Boat Racing Fanatic
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    I've almost added another 1/8 scale to the fleet, ( its half paid for :) ) its a nitro powered 1959 U-00 Maverick roundnose built by the same friend that built my Squire Shop. Its a gorgeous boat with a beautiful paint job. The only picture I have right now is bringing it in with the tug. We have a separate class for the roundnose scales (Classic scale) but they can race in Unlimited as well.
    P1000580.jpg
     
  3. Tetefroid

    Tetefroid New Member

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    interested!
     
  4. Gromit

    Gromit Studio Forums Elite
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    CNC machine? OK, add model-building to this list:

    [​IMG]

    I too prefer a good old jigsaw, scrollsaw when I'm lazy, and sand down the last mm. If you have a lot of projects in the pipe, it's really worth spending some money on a belt sander. I use a handheld one which can be mouted to the table. But a sanding block will do just fine, it just takes a bit longer. I don't know how the sand paper sticks to those bar sanders. I'm not mad about velcro, I usually take some wood blocks and plywood scraps, glue some sand paper on it and trim it with a cutter blade. That gives your sanding block a hard surface and gives you more control and makes it a lot easier to get a clear, straight edge and crisp corners. Further, you can shape the sanding block pretty mch any way you like.
     
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  5. Tetefroid

    Tetefroid New Member

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    LOL that meme is so true. I think i have decided on the bandsaw and belt sander similar to that RiIGID one pictured, I still need to clean up my little shop area and get ready to build some frames. This will be my first one ever, so some failure is assured. I've never been a great craftsman, but I love doing this kind of thing.
     
  6. Tombsy

    Tombsy Boat Racing Fanatic
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    Which Dumas kit are you building? The Atlas? If so I remember seeing some build tips maybe on rcgroups? I can check if that's the boat your doing. What kind of power are you planning?


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  7. Tetefroid

    Tetefroid New Member

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    [​IMG] It is going to be the Circus Circus, I hope. Going brushless. I also think I am going to make the cowl that came with the kit into a fiberglass plug, unless I can buy one that fits. But at this point, I am getting ready, to get ready to start. I probably won't get a frame together before October.
     
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  8. Tombsy

    Tombsy Boat Racing Fanatic
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  9. Gromit

    Gromit Studio Forums Elite
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    So sorry, I got all confused about the english names of the types of saw. I meant a coping saw, and the jigsaw is my lazy electric option. I had borrowed a scrollsaw from a friend, but found i didn't need it often enough to justify the price and the amount of space it takes. For most jobs the good old fretsaw will do, and for the really big ones i can always borrow it again (lucky me, always good to know a carpenter). A small bandsaw would definitely be on my wishlist if i had a little more room.
    The latest addition to my collection is a tiny Proxxon circular saw, which is one of those tools i wonder how i did things before i had it. It' brilliant for cutting small timbers, which are harder and harder to come by around my place. Maybe something to think about when choosing a bandsaw.
    And don't worry to much about the craftsmanship. If you love doing things you pick them up quickly. One thing I like about scratch building is that the occasional failure is so much cheaper. If you mess up a part, you just make another one.
    Wait!! You are not scratching! I begin to wonder why you want to make your own parts. Is there something wrong with the kit?
    (If we go on much longer we should maybe start a thread and not hijack Tombsy's)
     
  10. Tombsy

    Tombsy Boat Racing Fanatic
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    I guess some of the wood in those Dumas kits is not the greatest, I've seen other people recommending to replace it.


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  11. Tetefroid

    Tetefroid New Member

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    It seems to me I need to work into the frames, spaces for the LIPO's, and it seems I will need room for CG adjustments. And perhaps other things I haven't yet discovered. So to answer your question; why I am making my own parts, I simply want to keep the original frames original for patterns and modify the new ones. At least, until I get a modification I like and that works. And since I am getting my inspiration from Tombsy, I certainty don't want to interject to the point of hijacking Tombsy thread lol.
     
  12. Tetefroid

    Tetefroid New Member

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    I see that it is typical, that the strut is installed inside the back of the boat, penetrating the hull. Is there a reason one couldn't flip it (the strut support) 90 degrees and install it on the tansom?
     
  13. Tombsy

    Tombsy Boat Racing Fanatic
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    You absolutely could mount it on the outside of the transom, but for racing under NAMBA rules the prop on scales and Sport 40's can only be one drive dog length behind the transom.
    So it limits it to the bottom or the inside of the transom. If your not worried about NAMBA it makes things easier if you hang it off the back. Especially for electric you don't have to seal off water coming in.
    If you meant putting it on the inside of the transom, yes some boats I've done that it all depends on the length of the mounting bracket and strut. I'm trying to end up with the one drive dog length for the prop behind the boat.
    Make sense?


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  14. Tetefroid

    Tetefroid New Member

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    Yes, thank you, that answers that. I think I might as well make it "legal". Looks like I better get me a copy of those NAMBA rules. The non-trip chine extends past the transom on the Miss Circus Circus, causing me to wonder if that could be considered the transom as well.
     
    #74 Tetefroid, Sep 16, 2017
    Last edited: Sep 17, 2017
  15. Tombsy

    Tombsy Boat Racing Fanatic
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  16. Tetefroid

    Tetefroid New Member

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    Well your technical definition of a transom is good enough for me. How does that 'Smokin' Joe' run? looks like you may have to upgrade to the dual pickup rudder. I could really use more pics of that boat, if that is the same hull as the Circus Circus. Just to see how everything fits.
     
  17. Tombsy

    Tombsy Boat Racing Fanatic
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    The boat runs amazing, it is a fg hull that was built as a nitro boat by a top racer in the US. A club member here raced it for years and then had it converted to FE to race in Washington with the NW club. The boat has many battle scars and needs a repaint but it's set up really well. I'm taking it to the Nats in Vegas next month, it won't win concourse but I think it's quick. :)
    I can put some pics on my photobucket if you want.


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  18. Tombsy

    Tombsy Boat Racing Fanatic
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    Went back to work on the Executone while waiting for painting weather, sanding, sanding, sanding, can't get away from it lol. IMG_4796.jpg
     
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  19. RustyWrench

    RustyWrench ...I Always Edit...
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    Looks beautiful.
     
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  20. Tombsy

    Tombsy Boat Racing Fanatic
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    Been working away but can’t tell from the pictures, drilled the transom for the rudder mount and drilled the bottom for the brass stuffing tube for the flex cable. I’m using 5/16” tube for a 1/4” flex with no Teflon liner. I gave the whole boat another coat of epoxy and more sanding, sanding, sanding, it never ends lol. I’ve done a little work on the cowling, cut out some parts and I think I have a plan to attach it.
    [​IMG]


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