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Discussion in 'Newbie Q & A' started by Spence123, Mar 17, 2015.
So guys? Sorry for the question as I will see how it does with the 35t motor
If you have set it to NIMH then you have removed the low voltage cutoff.. Which is a bad thing if your using Lipo.
The ESC is cutting power to prevent over discharging the lipo (which it is supposed to do to prevent a fire)
(Now you see why I use NIMH)
When a Motor stalls out, your dumping a HUGE amount of current into the motor to make it move.. This can lead to burnt out brushes and the motor getting Hot.
With your new 35T motor remember to run it in.. If you dry run it.. all you need to do is connect it to 2 AA Batteries for 10mins to let the brushes bed in before you give it full power.
Now since you have gotten the Atomik 35T I can only assume you bought the $10 sealed end bell. This motor has not had the best reputation for longevity but it will at least give you
a chance to experiment with a 35T motor.
Yeah, it felt pretty cheap, is there a way I could lower the lvc? LVC should not be at 7.6v, should be more like 7v. is it really the lvc that did it? I ordered the beadlocks, not the good tires yet. I noticed the rig was much slower, oops, I didn't really run it in, but I was relatively gentle with it. Why did you let me buy it then hm? Would this motor be any better? http://www.ebay.com/itm/RC4WD-540-C...562?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item43d9843b02 So lipo is a crappy choice for crawling? I can deal with the sorta short run times, but lipos work great in my rustler vxl and summit, except the lvc on my rustler vxl is set at 6.8v, and you can never tell the truck is slowing down or doing less of a wheelie until lvc comes on. I run it until it has no more usable torque. I almost got better run time with a 7-cell nimh pack...
You need to re - program the esc. Mag dosent run lipo's in crawler because he is worried of it shorting out at causing a fire , like his sprint. Lipo's are the best for crawling and trailing . Practicaly everyone runs them. I run them everyone I know irl runs them. Lipo's are the best, but if you buy crap batteries, it might catch on fire. Your fine. Oh and that motor is 1000000% better
Lipo isn't a crappy choice.. Its just you have to have the right ESC and motor combo to make it work well.
If your after a motor thats going to last then rebuildable is the key.. You can fully service one, Rebuild and re-oil and keep going.
LOL it was the E10 that melted to goo... not the Sprint.. Back then LIPO wouldnt fit the sprint 2.. so it wasn't a problem..
You also have to remember that my SCX10 goes through anything and can run fully submerged.. I don't have the confidence to run a Lipo underwater..
NIMH is also heavier than LIPO..
When correctly loaded onto an RC it eliminates the need to add wheel weights as the battery pushes the Front end(Or rear end) down which aids in crawling and decending.
I will buy a rebuildable brushed motor and deal with the short run times. Once however, I have fun and eventually run out the stock motor and the new motor that I just bought, likely I will buy the hackmoto 35t, or some tekin product.
In this Hobby you get what you pay for.
RC4WD do a Rebuildable motor.. Its worth a shot
I have not heard anything on the Hackmoto.. but since they are made by Yeah Racing, They can't be too bad.
You could take a risk on an Integy motor but they are a bit hit and miss and you need to solder your own motor wires as it doesn t come with any.
Snow Leopard also do a rebuildable 35T motor..
I say run the 35T motor you have... and if its not torqeuy enough we look at a 45T.
Once you get me a Vid of YOUR driving... I can then suggest what direction we can head in
i highly once again suggest the rc4wd rebuildable line
ok thanks guys, I will take one (even tho its spring its still cold and there is still snow on the ground) I will take a video pretty soon. I will look into the rc4wd rebuildable motors. Snow is thinning and it will be muddy, but still yay no more snow I hope