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Aquacraft VS1 FE conversion

Discussion in 'Boat Build Projects' started by Tombsy, Dec 8, 2011.

  1. Tombsy

    Tombsy Boat Racing Fanatic
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    So here's my latest project to kick off our brand new boat build section.
    Thanks Medic!

    I'll be converting an Aquacraft VS1 outboard tunnel hull to electric.
    Another member of our club is building one as well and his woodworking skills put me to shame but we'll see. (I'll try not to sneak in pictures of his)
    The hull that's getting the chop has seen a few seasons of racing and needs to be re-sealed anyway. I have a new hull to be setup with the nitro motor.
    Hopefully it should go like this one when it's done.

    [video=youtube_share;RSgaQibSy6M]http://youtu.be/RSgaQibSy6M[/video]

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    #1 Tombsy, Dec 8, 2011
    Last edited: Dec 9, 2011
  2. Tombsy

    Tombsy Boat Racing Fanatic
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    I'm using an O.S. outboard leg, an Aquacraft Water-cooled, 36-56-2030kV motor from the UL-1, and a Turnigy 120 amp water cooled esc on a 4s 5000mah lipo.
    The motor adapter I'm still waiting on, Hyperformance makes a metal one but there is a guy in Australia that makes them from Delrin that I'm still waiting to here back from.
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  3. Tombsy

    Tombsy Boat Racing Fanatic
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    The hull is stripped and I laid out a couple lines for the new battery compartment. The cardboard is a rough template for the new sides. The idea is to cut out the top of the hull to make a new waterproof radio box to fit the battery and esc. The steering servo can stay in the front with cables or move to the back with push-rods I haven't decided for sure yet.
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    Now to fire up the Dremel and go to Michael's to look for some plywood.
     
  4. Megatoys

    Megatoys Studio Forums Elite
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  5. Tombsy

    Tombsy Boat Racing Fanatic
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    Overdue for an update, I got a couple parts I was waiting for, the adapter for attaching the motor to the leg, and a couple of the new Hitec waterproof digital servo's with a programmer to try out.
    I picked up some aircraft ply so I think I have what I need.
    The holidays were a blur but now it's time to cut some wood.

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  6. Tombsy

    Tombsy Boat Racing Fanatic
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    I got some cutting done on the hull, room for the 4s battery. There was some Styrofoam glued in that came out pretty easily. I'm planning on lining the bottom of the battery box with a piece of kevlar/carbon fiber 2x2 cloth to help reinforce the ply. Next is to make a template for the sides that will be cut out of 1/8" ply.

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  7. Tombsy

    Tombsy Boat Racing Fanatic
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    Here's some pics of figuring out the battery and receiver box, I scratched the carbon fiber cloth for the bottom and I'm skinning it in 1/16" ply instead. I'm using the existing radio box for the receiver and servo and will be separately waterproof from the battery box. (Hopefully)

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    I think this should be it for pieces, time to break out the epoxy.

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  8. Tombsy

    Tombsy Boat Racing Fanatic
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    I got the brass tubing cut and fitted for the esc wires (these will be waterproofed with heat shrink tubing later), for the steering cables, and for the water cooling lines in and out of the esc.

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  9. Tombsy

    Tombsy Boat Racing Fanatic
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    The radio box and esc mount are epoxied in. The sides are 1/8" ply, the bottom doubler is 1/16" and the seam on the side is skinned on the inside with 1/32" ply. The bulkhead between the front and back boxes has brass tubes for 2 steering cables and a servo extension from the esc. Everything on the inside has had a coat of West Systems finishing epoxy then squeegeed with a credit card. (to save on sanding)

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    The esc mount is from OffshoreElectrics.
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  10. Tombsy

    Tombsy Boat Racing Fanatic
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    Progress!
    The servo is in and the steering cables are finished. I used the heavy duty Du-Bro cable with the nylon sheath, the sheath will be epoxied in to the bulkheads. I test mounted the leg/motor and esc to get the cable lengths and soldered on Sullivan quick clips.
    The motor wires and steering cables will be waterproofed with heat shrink tubing around the brass pieces.
    The 1/8" x 1/8" wood strips that hold the radio box lid were fitted and epoxied along with the last couple pieces of the top.
    All that's left is to make a template for the radio box lid to be cut out of pexi and give it some clear coat.
    And paint the cowl....

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    #10 Tombsy, Jan 24, 2012
    Last edited: Jan 24, 2012
  11. imjimbo

    imjimbo Studio Forums Elite
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    gday tombsy
    whats the guys name / website im in australia and im about to do another scratch build (i have 3 on the go atm... waiting for parts ...) im toying with the idea of a f1 tunnel but il make a plug and make it out of fg laminate. i want to make this one a true outboard like yours .. id like to get someone local that makes/supplies these sort of parts. my google searches only brings me to shops that import from the same places that i do.. pm me if you dont want to do it in the open..
    cheers jimbo
     
  12. imjimbo

    imjimbo Studio Forums Elite
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    btw that esc handles 6s 5000mha 50c, leapord1650kv and a 646 prop in my cat no worries at all .... just incase you want to get excited..
     
  13. Tombsy

    Tombsy Boat Racing Fanatic
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    No problem, It's Kris Flynn that makes the shafts and adapters, I was pm'ing him on International Waters but he has an email listed krisflynn_@_froggy.com.au (without the underlines).

    My buddy and I are each making the tunnels so I have to at least start out even with him he's using the Aquacraft 60amp esc.
    We both race the same boats on nitro so it should be fun to see the difference, he's a 30 year nitro guy coming over to the dark side.
    :)
     
  14. Tombsy

    Tombsy Boat Racing Fanatic
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    Pretty much finished now except for painting the cowl.
    It got 2 coats of West Systems epoxy inside then I sprayed it with 2 coats of Klass Kote clear.
    The motor wires are sealed to the brass tubes with heat shrink tubing, as well as the steering cables. All the water lines are plumbed in, they go to the esc first and then to the motor and out the left side. (Left side so you can check for water coming out as the boat goes by running clockwise laps)
    The COG worked out right on with the 4s battery and all the gear installed, I just have to double check the height and angle of the outboard leg on a flat set-up board.
    I'm using the Fly Sky GT3 on the electric boats and Futaba 3PK Fasst on the nitro boats.

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    I rebuilt the nitro powered VS1 as well and transferred all the hardware to the brand new hull.
    Now to wait for some soft water and do some prop testing.
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  15. Tombsy

    Tombsy Boat Racing Fanatic
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    I finally got the cowl painted. Nothing too fancy but it should be easy to see :)

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  16. imjimbo

    imjimbo Studio Forums Elite
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    Hey tombsy thanks fo the responce .. ive tried that email all different ways with the underlines and with out with spaces and dashes every thing i can think of ... there is 65 proffessional kris flynns in australia according to google i can t find one with a link to rc...... If by chance you do get to get in touch with him can you see if he has an updated email .... cheers jimbo
     
  17. Tombsy

    Tombsy Boat Racing Fanatic
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    Here's an updated email it should work because I ordered one recently and this was the paypal address.
    krisflynn85 'at' gmail.com
    This is his thread at Offshore Electrics
    OS Outboard Electric Adaptors
     
  18. Bret Martin

    Bret Martin New Member

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    I converted mine with a Hyperformance leg and Aquacraft 36 motor from a Lucas Oil. It handled better as a nitro (a little slower) but with the heavy electric motor sticking up in the air it seems top heavy. If I hit some chop in the corner it will roll. I have the battery all the way on the floor.
    Did you seem to have that problem?
    Thanks, Bret
     
  19. Tombsy

    Tombsy Boat Racing Fanatic
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    I know what you mean my electric version isn’t as dialed in as my nitro. But I learned that if you blip the throttle off for an instant coming into the corner it settles the boat down and turns a lot better. You can try adjusting the height a bit, the center off my prop shaft is about 1/16-1/8” above the bottom. But tunnels don’t like it too rough but should be able to handle race water. I also beefed up my steering servo and that helped too.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
     
  20. Bret Martin

    Bret Martin New Member

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