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Discussion in 'Road Giants 6x6/8x8/10x10' started by ScaleBuilder, Dec 19, 2014.
Post up a couple of cool shots when you take them.
nice!! my big bro is heading over for that with his family! his little ones LOVE it!! LOL!!
Small world hey
1000+ views yay!
Had a blast at the Avalon International Airshow today! Got to see the ASLAV and took some pictures.
Detailed shot of the headlight cluster.
Every ASLAV has a nickname from Slayer to Adrenalin Rush, this particular one is known as Solid.
I also have a nickname for my ASLAV but wont reveal until it's finished!
Got the dudes to pose for me
Got many more detailed photos for reference to help me with the body shell.
I am fortunate to see the full scale counterpart as most scale builders don't get the chance.
And that sums up the field trip.
Next update is....body shell. I will see what i can do.
i registered just for this thread; What's your update for the project.
I am building a Stryker APC - the US upgrade from the LAV; is there any issue using real axial to build such kind of 8x8, I am using the axials from HGP601 6x6 truck, but hesitating should I switch to differential type rather than solid axial
Hi, I have made more progress, just busy with life and all that. Will update this weekend.
What do you mean by real axles? Like axles without the transmission and motor mount? They require drive shafts, and many people find it difficult finding the right length and steep angles for those drive shafts.
With LAV's and that Stryker with 4 axles, the wheel base is very short compared to most vehicles making it real hard to mount the motor, tranny, and fitting all the drive shafts together.
Solid axle was used for crawling purposes. Diff axles are good for other than crawling.
Aaannd I'm back.
The body shell was made from 0.5mm aluminium sheet.
I created drawings in CAD to find the cut size and bend marks needed to make it.
The sheet metal was bent by placing the sheet on a bench top with a straight plank of wood on top of the sheet. Then clamp the wood, sheet and bench all together. The fold line was lined up to the upper piece of wood.
Then another plank of wood was placed on the under side of the sheet and pushed upwards simply with my hands to bend the sheet metal. Worked fine.
The edges of the sheet metal were bent inwards to prevent sharp edges, and increase rigidity.
The larger body part has 2mm thick aluminium parts to brace it together, and there are small neodymium magnets on the braces and on the chassis for mounting.
And here is how it sits. The nose cone is mounted to the chassis using small door hinges, and folds downwards for easy access to electronics.
There is no rear panel as it would drag on the ground sometimes. So I've got some roll bar looking thing made up for the rear which can also allow me to mount stuff to it such as a spare tire and lights.
And I got the chassis painted in a dark green similar to military green.
Had to take it all apart, and cleaned all parts in soapy water to remove dust and finger print oils.
Then rinsed in clean water, then dried.
Then went over it with primer, probably not necessary on aluminium, and then painted it with the green you see. Used spray cans.
Then bolted everything back together.
Still figuring out how to paint the body shell. What pattern and colours.
And might add more detail to bod shell before painting.
LooKing good. Thanks for the update. I know how it goes sometimes, life just gets in the way
Nice build for body, I guess I will not be able to make it from aluminum.
In terms of the chassis, do you calculates your parts are in proportion with real stryker? Namely, the tyre diameter / tyre width / track width are the key.
I bought HG p601's gear box, and feiyue tyres from banggood, but it turns out the track width is too wide for the tire or tires are too small proportionally; I will try to cut the axial shorter, so it come similar to strykers.
Another option i will try is to mod existing rc car with proper track width to 8x4, two dummy axials, and mount 3d printed rim and fit with truck tyre which looks like stryker more.
Hi, the parts I chose such as axles, wheels and the dimensions of the chassis were made approximately to scale.
So for example, if you scale down the real lav, and the scale tire diameter is say 105mm, but they don't make tires that size so I settled with 103mm diameter tires.
The scale was figured out by looking at pictures of the real thing, and then comparing to the model I drew in CAD (see first page). Because the internet does not tell you all the dimensions you need to know, so I used pictures for reference.
First thing I chose to scale was track width, then overall wheel diameter, then wheel base (distance between each axle), then made the custom chassis to suit those. Then body shell scale was figured out last.
Cutting axles sound risky.
Exceed RC make a 8x8 crawler, you could mod that, and add your own body.
Hey mate, I have been reading through this thread and what an awesome project! How's that body going?
This is sad.
All the images are now broken because photobucket updated their policy.
Does anyone know how to embed google drive images? Not working for me, comes up with:
And no image?
Trying to post updates soon
I don't know about google, but you can go to https://postimages.org/ and it works a lot like photo bucket used to
Thanks darkside0914, I have used that site and have updated all images manually.
PAINT - BODY SHELL
And now the reveal of the body shell with camo paint.
The masking was done with masking tape and paper.
Curves where cut out of the masking tape using one of those scalpel knives.
Paint colours were applied in order from lightest to darkest:
First layer was the lightest colour, the cream/sandy paint.
Second layer was dark green.
Third layer was black.
Fourth layer was light green (decided to add this later, otherwise would have been second layer.)
Each layer of paint needed around 5-7 coats.
Next up is decorations such as spare tires, fuel cans, LED lighting etc.
The paint job is really cool, keep up the work!