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Axial Scx10 Guide

Discussion in 'Newbe Help' started by Crankbait, Jun 14, 2012.

  1. Crankbait

    Crankbait Think...
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    Hey all just a quick guide that may answer your initial questions about the SCX10 platform.
    All of the links provided are either manufacture links or recommendations. ( You have the final say so on your rig.)

    These are not waterproof and if you wanna get wet this should be your first upgrade - Here is Medics video.
    RC ADVENTURES - Waterproofing RC, CHEAP! Example Model: Axial SCX10 RC Truck - Tutorial - YouTube


    He doesn't mention about liquid electrical tape but it is the
    same as plasti dip, but with a brush applicator. -4 oz Black Liquid Electrical Tape Waterproof Gardner Bender

    Trail Honcho RTR - Wheel base is 12.3'' (312.42mm) honcho.jpg
    Comes assembled requires batteries and chargers.
    Axial Racing - AX90022
    Dingo Kit - wheel base 11.4" (289.56mm) dingo.jpg
    Needs full assembly requires all electronics and batteries.
    Axial Racing - AX90021 Jeep.jpg Jeep Wrangler Unlimited Rubicon RTR.
    Same dimensions as the Honcho.
    Comes assembled requires batteries and chargers.
    Axial Racing - SCX10™ 2012 Jeep® Wrangler Unlimited Rubicon 1/10th Scale Electric 4WD - RTR

    ax90027_jeep_kit_01_300px.jpg

    Jeep Wrangler Unlimited Rubicon Kit.
    Same dimensions as the Honcho.
    Needs full assembly requires all electronics and batteries.
    Body has removable top and door window frames.
    Axial Racing - SCX10™ 2012 Jeep® Wrangler Unlimited Rubicon 1/10th Scale Electric 4WD - Kit

    The Jeep Wrangler G6 Kit
    Needs full assembly requires all electronics
    Jeep body has a dove tailed rear.
    Wheel base is centered, same length links front and rear.
    http://www.axialracing.com/products/ax90034

    All of these are great stock, but if you desire upgrades there are tons available.

    Bodies-There are a ton of them from toy grade hard plastic bodies to hobby grade lexan.
    This really boils down to what you want.
    Any of them can be made to fit or will fit if their wheelbase matches.

    Links-The Honcho and Wrangler RTR come with plastic suspension links.
    The Dingo and Wrangler Kits come with aluminum links. (Wrangler Kits have aluminum shocks)

    Making your own suspension links to lengthen or to shorten your wheelbase is simple. - http://www.rcsparks.com/forum/rc-tutorials/3419-how-video-making-custom-links.html
    ( remember if you make your wheel base a lot longer you will have to upgrade or make your own drive shafts.)

    Wheels and tires-The Honcho, Dingo, and both Wranglers come with 1.9 size wheels and tires. (Ripsaws on Honcho and Dingo, Maxxis on the Wranglers.)
    The tires are foam filled and glued to the wheel.
    The tires can be removed several ways just search for "removing glued rc tires from wheels" and pick one.
    The wheels also have a small vent hole to let air in and out so the tires can flex but if you are going swimming you will want to seal this hole with silicon or what ever you have handy to keep the foams from getting water logged.

    Upgrading to 2.2 size wheels and tires will require a lift kit or body cutting.Lift kits can be easily made or you can buy one. - Axial SCX10 Honcho Dingo | Chassis Lift Kit | Scale RC Crawler truck parts. [SCX-06 HDLK] - $16.00
    Be aware that lifting will increase the drive shaft angle and to much will cause binding.
    In my opinion raising or trimming the body is a much better option.
    If you want to lower your CG (center of gravity) to help climbing and crawling add weight to your wheels.
    Stick on lead weights to bb's will work. Your choice. Or the newer preferred method using Knuckle weights which is easier on the drive train.

    What kind of wheel and tires? Bead locks for sure if you want easy tire changes, but that too is up to your style.

    Batteries and Esc's- (AE-2 programming guide at bottom.)

    Stock Honchos RTR's come with Tamiya style battery connectors.
    Which will work fine with nimh batteries, but should be upgraded if you go with lipo.
    The AE2 esc will work with 6cell nimh or 2s lipo batteries. (3S if you add an external Bec).
    A 4000mAh or bigger battery is your best bet for extended fun.(mAh is how much juice the battery holds.)
    The AE2 comes from Axial with the lipo low voltage cut off on. ( At to low a voltage for some, but I usually run out before my 5000mAh battery does.)
    lipo batteries for the most part are not waterproof ( Max Amps are, but should come with Vaseline.)
    A hardcase lipo with a thin layer of silicon around the seam and wires will do the trick on a budget.
    nimh batteries don't need waterproofing.
    Lipo batteries require a lipo charger.( with a balancing feature recommended.) Balancing charges every cell the same.

    The AE2 is a very good esc with a good drag brake. It has a 19turn motor limit. ( Nothing lower.)

    Here are the binding procedures.
    [video=youtube;jv2cjMyC34g]http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=jv2cjMyC34g[/video]


    There are several esc upgrades.
    Tekin Fxr- Tekin - FX Pro Brushed ESC Series
    Holmes Hobbies Brxl- Holmes Hobbies / Holmes Bikes :: Motor Speed Controllers :: Holmes Hobbies TorqueMaster BR-XL (Can get waterproof.)
    Traxxas makes waterproof esc's , but no drag brakes.
    Several more just search rc crawler esc's.

    Motors-Brushed motors and a few brushless can run in water. ( In muddy water you can put panty hose over the motor vents.)


    The stock Honcho RTR and Wrangler RTR come with a sealed can 27turn brushed motor.
    Axial makes a 20turn, 27turn, and 55turn motors and they are cheap. ( 55t will make the SCX10 slow.)
    Higher the turn the slower the motor, but the more torque or climbing power it will have.
    Sealed nonrebuildable brushed motors are cheap, but when they break just toss em' in the trash.
    Rebuildable brushed motors are more costly but usually last better.

    Tekin-Tekin - Smarter, Smaller, Faster
    Holmes Hobbies-Holmes Hobbies / Holmes Bikes :: Motors :: Brushed
    and several others make these.Most people like the 35Turn for the best all around motors.

    Dual motors- Axial SCX10 Honcho Dingo | Dual Motor Mount | RC Crawler scale truck Parts! [SCX-03 DMM] - $14.25
    This adds a lot of grunt to your rig, but you will need to upgrade your esc.

    Brush less motor upgrades are used by some, but will require several upgrades to the drive line. ( Steel gears)

    Transmission-The stock Axial Trans is a great set-up, but can be upgraded to steel gears for durability. Robinson Racing makes almost all of the gears for the axles and trans. in hardened steel.

    Spur and pinion gears can be upgraded just like the other gears but the ratio you choose depends on your set-up.

    Drive shafts-The new style driveshafts ( Wildboar) are plastic and have a threaded pin instead of set screws to attach them to the outdrives.
    They are tough shafts for most, but can be broken.
    Upgrades are easy to come by.
    Rc4wd, Junfac, and MIP come to mind- Punisher Shaft

    Steering servo-The stock servo is sufficient. It needs waterproofed
    Any upgrade should be High torque with steel gears. I personally only recommend HiTec servos, but there are several other options.
    Here is a waterproof one. -HS-5646WP - Hitec RCD

    The turning radius is very large due to the locked front differential.
    One way to fix this is unlocking the diff, but your off road ability will suffer.
    Another fix is to overdrive the front diff compared to the rear diff. (Gear it higher.)

    Here are a few links to the gears provided by Greenie.
    Axial Racing - Heavy Duty Bevel Gear Set - 36T/14TAxial Racing - Heavy Duty Bevel Gear Set - 38T/13TAxial Racing - Axial Heavy Duty Bevel Gear Set - 43T/13T
    Be aware though that this will effect your straight line performance.

    The Stock steering links are flexible plastic on the RTR's. They give to protect your servo, but aluminum links are available.

    Servos can also be mounted to the frame for a more scale look. -Axial SCX10 Honcho Dingo | Chassis Mounted Servo Kit with Panhard Bar | Scale RC Crawler Truck Parts! [SCX-09 CMSP] - $20.00

    Shocks-The Axial shocks are adequate at best , but they do leak.
    Upgrade them if ya want just remember the shock length will raise or lower your ride if you get different lengths than stock .

    Axles-They are tough in their stock form and have differential locks.( Both wheels on the axle pull.)
    Aluminum upgrades like steering knuckles will make them even better.
    Also Hard steel gears can be installed for a more bullet proof ride.

    If you are building a 6 wheel drive beast the center axle will need to be made out of two axles.
    axel.jpg

    This is just a quick overview, with a lot of opinions.

    The final say in your build is you and your imagination.
    I'm sure I left some things out or put some in wrong. ( These can be edited.)
    If you have any questions don't be afraid to ask!!:haveaniceday:


    AE-2 programming guide.

    Plug it into a castle link. It is programmable via that. if you don't have one you can do this:

    Manual programming:
    Follow these steps to change settings on your Axial AE-2 ESC without a computer.

    *Remove your pinion gear before calibration and manual programming as a safety precaution!

    *STEP 1 : Start with the transmitter ON and the ESC switched OFF and not connected to the battery.

    STEP 2 : Plug a battery into the ESC. Hold full throttle on the transmitter and turn the ESC switch ON.

    After a few seconds you will get the four rings in a row signaling full throttle calibration.
    Keep on holding full throttle.

    After a few more seconds, you will hear another four rings in a row.
    After the second group of four rings, relax the throttle to neutral.
    If you have successfully entered programming mode, the ESC will beep twice, pause, and repeat the two beeps.

    STEP 3 : The programming sequence is always presented in sequential order and always starts with the first setting (None) within the first section (Voltage Cutoff).
    The first beep(s) signifies which section of the programming you are in and the second beep(s) signifies which setting is waiting for a “yes” or “no” answer.
    As you go sequentially through the options, you will need to answer “yes” by holding full throttle, or answer “no” by holding full brake until the ESC accepts your answer by beeping rapidly.
    Once an answer has been accepted, relax the throttle back to neutral for the next question.
    After a “no” answer is accepted, the ESC will then present you with the next option in that section.
    After a “yes” answer is accepted, the ESC knows you aren’t interested in any other option in that section, so it skips to the first option in the next section.

    Settings and explanations
    The following section explains all the settings available to you via manual programming and what each one does to change the reactions of the ESC in order to tune it to your specific preferences.
    More settings are available via Castle Link.7.
    Cutoff VoltageSets the voltage at which the ESC lowers or removes power to the motor in order to either keep the battery at a safe minimum voltage (Lithium Polymer cells) or the radio system working reliably (NiCad/NiMH cells).
    Setting 1 : NoneDoes not cut off or limit the motor due to low voltage. Do not use with any Lithium Polymer packs!Use this setting ONLY with NiCad or NiMH packs. With continued driving, the radio system may eventually cease to deliver pulses to the servo and ESC, and the vehicle will not be under control.
    You will irreversibly damage Lithium Polymer packs with this setting!
    Setting 2 : Auto-LiPo (Default)This setting allows you to go back and forth between 2 and 3 cell LiPo packs without having to change the cutoff voltage for each one.
    The ESC automatically sets the cutoff voltage correctly for a 2 or 3 cell pack when that pack is plugged in.

    2. Drag BrakeSets the amount of drag brake applied at neutral throttle to simulate the slight braking effect of a neutral brushed motor while coasting.
    Setting 1 : Drag Brake OFF
    Vehicle will coast with almost no resistance from the motor at neutral throttle.
    Setting 2 : Drag Brake 15%Very Low amount of braking effect from the motor at neutral throttle
    Setting 3: Drag brake 25%Low amount of braking effect from the motor at neutral throttle
    Setting 4 : Drag Brake 40%More braking effect from the motor at neutral throttle.
    Setting 5 : Drag Brake 50%Fairly high braking effect from the motor at neutral throttle.
    Setting 6 : Drag Brake 100% (Default)Full braking effect from the motor at neutral throttle.

    3. Brake / Reverse TypeSets
    whether reverse is enabled or not, and exactly how it can be accessed.

    Setting 1 : Reverse LockoutThis setting allows the use of reverse only after the ESC senses two seconds of neutral throttle. Use it for race practice sessions and bashing, but check with your race director to see if this setting is allowed for actual racing.
    Setting 2 : Forward/Brake OnlyUse this setting for actual sanctioned racing events. Reverse cannot be accessed under any circumstances with this setting.
    Setting 3 : Forward/Brake/Reverse (Default)Reverse or forward is accessible at any time after the ESC brakes to zero motor RPM (if the vehicle is moving).
    Axial Car ESC Programming Reference:
    1: Voltage CutoffOption
    1 : NoneOption
    2 : Auto-LiPo (D)*
    5: Drag BrakeOption
    1 : Disabled (D)*Option
    2 : 15%Option
    3 : 25%Option
    4 : 40%Option
    5 : 50%Option
    6: 100% (D)*
    3: Brake/Reverse TypeOption
    1 : Reverse LockoutOption
    2 : Forward/Brake OnlyOption
    3 : Forward/Brake/Reverse (D)*
     
    #1 Crankbait, Jun 14, 2012
    Last edited: Nov 17, 2013
  2. fordguy8790

    fordguy8790 Studio Forums Elite
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    Awesome write up, Crankbait! Someone sticky this!
     
  3. josh1987

    josh1987 New Member

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    well done mate. what a great write up
     
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  4. BlackPhoenix

    BlackPhoenix Studio Forums Elite
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    Awesome for the new people considering getting an SCX10. Good job.
     
  5. Greenie

    Greenie VillAge iDioT
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    GREAT WORK MAN!!!
    I do agree!!! STICKY NOTE, STICKY NOTE!!!!!
    STICKY NOTE!!!!!!!!!!
    :haveaniceday:
     
  6. NorthwestRC

    NorthwestRC Studio Forums Elite
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    i have a question!

    someone had answered my question once before, if the stock esc could handle dual motors, and they said it can, then reading your post, its thrown me off. anywho, another question is, whats the stack pinion tooth count? i have some 48 pitch pinions from my racecar, but they are 19-22t
     
  7. BlackPhoenix

    BlackPhoenix Studio Forums Elite
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    I just had a quick look then and it is 20t.
     
  8. Danboard

    Danboard Friendly ENFORCER
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    Wonderful write up, Crankbait!

    This thread is now a Sticky.

    :)
     
  9. NorthwestRC

    NorthwestRC Studio Forums Elite
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    awesome thanks, means i can use my 18t pinion
     
  10. Crankbait

    Crankbait Think...
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    You can run dual motors on the stock ae2, but they would have to be 55turn maybe 45turn motors.
    Here is a good link Azrayel74 posted about dual set ups- How to-dual motors
    Also the link to the post you are talking about-http://www.rcsparks.com/forum/trail-4x4-trucks-chat/13041-dual-motor-scx10.html
     
  11. NorthwestRC

    NorthwestRC Studio Forums Elite
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    thaaanks that diagram is great
     
  12. memphis2857

    memphis2857 Studio Forums Elite
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    Maybe this will help.
    [video=youtube;JzNEfofMekw]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JzNEfofMekw[/video]
     
  13. fordguy8790

    fordguy8790 Studio Forums Elite
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    Yep... the ESC would see dual motors as one motor with half the turns, so two 45T motors would be like running a single 22.5T motor. Since it is above the AE-2's 19T limit, it should be good.

    Any lower, though, and stuff starts melting. :haveaniceday:
     
    #13 fordguy8790, Jun 15, 2012
    Last edited: Jun 15, 2012
  14. NorthwestRC

    NorthwestRC Studio Forums Elite
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    wooo, idk if its low gear overkill, but are the RC4wd 65t worth it?
     
  15. 907SCX10

    907SCX10 New Member

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    tourque monster?
    , wonder what kind of weight you could pull with that
    get good enough grip and see what kinda of vertical climb you have lol
     
  16. Suteki

    Suteki New Member

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    Wanting to get some clarification on waterproofing.

    Forgive my ignorance but I've been searching all over google, youtube and everywhere else but I don't think I have seen 'definitive' answers.

    I know about the ESC, servo, etc. The two things that have left me confused is the lipo battery and the LED light kit on the SCX10.

    Lipo: I use Gens Ace 2S 5000mah 40c hardcases. I plan on using plasti dip around the sides and where the terminals enter the hard case. From my understanding, it is NOT necessary to do anything with the balancing connector nor the deans connection. Is this correct? I can just leave both connections as they are? I was planning on at least plasti dipping them at the side closest to the battery anyway, but the connectors themselves don't need to be protected? They aren't going to short and send my lipo (and consequently scx10) up in smoke if I go crawling through a creek or the car somehow becomes submerged?

    I have heard of people doing absolutely nothing to their lipos and run them underwater but I don't want to chance it.

    The other one I couldn't get a concrete answer on, was the LED light kit. Should I be putting some plastidip on the LED ends where the LED is soldered to the wire or again are they fine?

    Sorry if this has been covered before but I just can't seem to find a definitive answer to either questions.

    [Edit] Yes I have also watched medics video on waterproofing but he didn't really mention balancing port or LED's from memory.
     
  17. Danboard

    Danboard Friendly ENFORCER
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    Hi there!

    About the LEDs: you don't have to worry about the LEDs. I use the Axial LEDs and only have the LED controller plasti-dipped and left the LED lights as is; I never had a problem when they get wet.

    However, when in doubt, then don't drive in water.

    Hope that helps.
     
  18. Suteki

    Suteki New Member

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    Thanks for the response mate, good to know. I suppose worse comes to worse, it'll blow the LED rather than the electronics I would imagine and replacement LED's are super expensive.

    Now about that LiPo.......Anyone?
     
  19. Crankbait

    Crankbait Think...
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    The thing about water is that in all honesty a poor conductor of electricity. ( Fresh water that is, salt water is another story.)
    When it comes to small sensitive electronics like receivers, esc's boards, or the circuits in servos they are effected by water due to their very small components.
    (A long explanation could follow, but I won't.)
    Electricity will follow the path of least resistance which in this case are the battery terminals not the water.
    It is the contamination or salt content in water that causes problems due to high ion's.

    Warning Science content!
    Batteries voltage that flows through the water will actually split H2O water molecule, commonly called electrolysis, it will produce hydrogen and oxygen in gas form , but it isn't confined to a small space so it goes unnoticed.

    So you can seal everything to be safe and no fix is 100% waterproof ( Not even Traxxas.), but if you aren't sure like Danboard said just stay on the beach.



     
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  20. Suteki

    Suteki New Member

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    Wont be going on the beach, at least not in salt water but i would like to tackle some fresh water creeks. I understand the point about battery connections vs printed circuit so i get it now.

    Will plastdip my electronics and the casing on my lipo :)
     

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