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Discussion in 'Newbe Help' started by Crankbait, Jun 14, 2012.
Awesome thread Crankbait!
Great write-up! I was wondering if there are any specific tupperware/ or any other sealed boxes that are being used for esc waterproofing? I have heard of the traxxas box. Any others?
My CC01 had a Traxxas Box in it and it worked great.
As far as tupperware style, if you can find them get the locking lids.
man i was already planning on a scx10 dingo. but this just locked me in as soon as i can im ordering it. thanks man awesome post.
Do you know if the wheelbase is longer on the new Jeep Rubicon?
It looks like it? hmmmm
Question was answered earlier. I was told it is the same as the other scx10.
Same as the Honcho anyway, 313mm. The Dingo is 290mm.
Anyone wanting to 4-Link they SCX10 need only to buy matching links for the uppers because they are the same length as the lowers on an SCX10.
I have seen this posted before about changing the Tamiya plug into mostly a Deans.
Is this more of a safety issue or more for a more power issue,or preference.
Also,my guess is that if you use an adaptor from a Tamiya plug into another,you would run into similar issues.
I am sorry if this has been posted before and I have missed it.Any thoughts and info would be greatly appreciated.
It is an issue with tamiya style not being sturdy enough to handle the extra voltage of a lipo.
So more of a safety issue.
So this might be a dumb Questio, but i want to get a SCX10 and i would prefer one of the kits. I was thinking about the dingo. Anyway, to the point. other then the bodys and bumpers. as there really any thing different about these trucks. I know ill be doing upgrades when i can and maybe a few mods but for now i just want the to want to build something. I like to look of the honcho and want to be able to get that body. is this something I can do with the dingo since the honcho does not come in a kit?
The difference is a few aluminum links and the wheelbase is longer on the Honcho.
Plus as you know with the kit you pick your own electronics.
The new Jeep kit is the same wheelbase as the Honcho.
so if i want to get a get and be able to use the honcho body i should go with the new jeep kit
You could, but links are easy to make and the wheel bases can be changed to fit what ever body, with in reason you would like.
I would say if you did go with the Jeep kit you would have no problem trading that body for a Honcho body.
ok so if i get the dingo i would just need to get the links for the honcho and id have the wheel base that i need. but everything else is the same right?
Yes, the Dingo is 1 inch shorter and needs all of the electronics, but everything else except the body and wheel color is the same.
Ok cool. THANK YOU SO MUCH! the really cleared things up for me and now i know witch one im going to get. now the only problem is saving the money so i can get it. i geuss that means that I got to take it easy on bashing my stampede so i dont have to spend it on parts. Again THINK YOU SO MUCH!
Awesome post crankbait, this guide helped me make the decision on which model to go with.
I am a noob® when it comes to trailers, scalers, and Axial... so this thread helped me immensely in deciding on the SCX10 Rubicon Kit and with the planning of electronics and future upgrades.
Thanks a lot for starting and contributing to this awesome thread fellow sparkers®!
(If there is any interest in a build series and upgrade series from a relatively noobish® point of view, let me know guys... I was planning on just highlighting a few things along the way, as opposed to a more detailed approach. There are so many good builds by more expert and experienced folks, I am a little reluctant to try lol...)
Thanks to Crankbait + Any solution for leaking Axial shocks?
First a BIG THANKYOU to Crankbait for taking the time to type up this thread starter. WTG Crankbait
Second, leaking shocks: I see Axial shocks leaking being almost a given as Crankbait mentions it at the start of this thread and I have seen it all over the place (inc. here Scx10 shock leaking who's got the right fix? - RCCrawler)... I am currently building a 2012 JK Rubicon (it has these shocks) and did the rolling chassis a week ago; since then it has been on axle stands waiting on me having some more time. I got the ESC working today and ran it in my lounge for all of 2 minutes and the bump stops on the front shocks are covered with oil and there are also signs of oil on the rears! Really
Why do folks put up with this? I have other RCs from HPI, Traxxas etc. that are years old and have never leaved a drop of shock oil.
Is it worth trying any other o-rings in the SCX10 (either from another manufacturer, or using a 3rd o-ring instead of the plastic spacer), or should I just stump up the $ now and get some 3rd party shocks? Anyone tried these?: GM21107 Gmade XD Piggyback Shock 93mm (2) Axial SCX10