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Axial Scx10 Guide

Discussion in 'Newbe Help' started by Crankbait, Jun 14, 2012.

  1. dna4engr

    dna4engr Studio Forums Elite
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    Sadly, I don't know of a fix for the leaky axial shocks. Out of the 4 stock ones that were on my Dingo, maybe 1 of them didn't leak. I have the Aluminum shock bodies and caps on my Exo with the rest of the stock Axial internals with 30 and 40 wt oil (F/B) and those haven't leaked yet.

    I have the Gmade XD PB 103mm shocks on my Wringo now. They are a very good shock. I have some leakage down the shaft on these but not too much. I have a very heavy rig at 12 lbs and these are mounted at an angle for better articulation. With all the awkward force vectors going in, I'm not sure I could avoid leaking. I did use a really thin oil up front, which will be more prone to leaking that thicker oil. I now have 40wt up front and will be putting in 50 in the back. these are really big bore shocks which makes them nice for damping. However, I would do some google searching for images of someone who has them on the rubicon to be sure you like the look. The functional piggyback is pretty cool.

    The best performing and probably least leaking shocks out there are the proline powerstrokes. But you pay for it. Most guys use the 4" slash rears, but for an scx10, the 3.5" fronts might work better. Or you can get the scale versions for the scx10. Kinda depends on if you want performance over scale looks.

    Dna
     
  2. Crankbait

    Crankbait Think...
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    It's crazy @dna4enger said just about the same thing I would have told you!
    I really like the Gmade shocks I picked up at a bargain from @jaloos, but he had already assembled them and they haven't leaked a drop.
    The stock shocks on every scx10 I have had leak a little.
    I have the worst luck in the world with rc shocks from a Losi mini 8ight to a Baja 5T I guess Im to rough on them!:disappearing:
     
    #82 Crankbait, Sep 6, 2013
    Last edited: Sep 6, 2013
  3. 4WheelRC

    4WheelRC Studio Forums Elite
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    o-ring update.

    Don't want to turn this into a leaky shock thread but FYI I contacted Axial support and they replied:

    I'll post back here with results of trying replacement Axial o-rings + will also be trying some Tamiya orange o-rings (suggested on another forum). Oh and also going to try the GMade shocks; I can't resist that they have real working piggy back cylinders :want:
     
  4. 4WheelRC

    4WheelRC Studio Forums Elite
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    Posting this from [U]service@axialracing.com[/U] to help anyone with an SCX10 Rubicon and the problem where the front upper suspension (3-link) plastic 'v' touches the front transmission shaft (from the center gearbox) if you articulate the front right wheel...

    Looks like Axial are saying that you need to 4-link the front of your SCX10 to prevent this (tbh I was planning on this upgrade anyway, to remove torque flex, the pivot ball popping out etc.).

    Good to hear that new SCX10 kits will be 4-link as standard, but I'm a bit surprised that it has taken Axial so long to switch, as I have seen folks posting in various forums with this problem for well over a year. Hey ho, as least there is light at the end of my 'clearance tunnel'. Contact them if this problem affects you!
     
    #84 4WheelRC, Sep 13, 2013
    Last edited: Sep 13, 2013
  5. bbwolf

    bbwolf Guest

    My scx10 had the 3 link on as well, but I made a 4 link out of the xtra parts.
     
  6. soulguard

    soulguard Studio Forums Elite
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    W00t! This is a great find for me. I'm a noob SCX10 honcho owner myself. Lots of great tips so far.
    I also noticed my 3 link rubbed the transmission, but it wasn't terrible. Still, need to put aside some time to swap in the 4 link switch. Waiting to get aluminum links first.

    :XD:
     
  7. 4WheelRC

    4WheelRC Studio Forums Elite
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    SOLUTION for leaking Axial shocks: Tamiya o-rings...

    @Leaking Axial shocks: I have made progress on this and following some suggestions in forums have tried replacing the stock O-rings in the dampers on my SCX10 Rubicon with the Tamiya red O-rings part number 50597 (used on the TA05, F350, CC, DB01, TT01 etc.)...

    The red Tamiya O-rings are a fairly hard compound, so should last well (you can get other colors which are softer compounds so maybe smoother but leakier, the reds feel smooth enough to me): They are 3mm internal diameter, so fit the Axial shock shafts fine. However, their external diameter is a little larger - This means that you have to squeeze them into the shock body. I achieved this by not using the small black plastic spacer that Axial put between the two O-rings and then you need to be really careful pushing the Tamiya O-rings in (I'll post a YouTube video on this soon):

    [​IMG]

    5 days in and the bump stops on my shocks are now dry as a bone and their action feels fine. When the truck has been sat on axle stands for a few days, there is little bit of 'sticking' from the shock the first time you push a wheel up, but this goes immediately (not sure if they were like this before) :relief:
     
    #87 4WheelRC, Sep 24, 2013
    Last edited: Sep 24, 2013
  8. soulguard

    soulguard Studio Forums Elite
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    Great tip on the Tamiya rings. I have a few of them left over from my TC3 and I've always had leaky shocks. Once my aluminum shock bodies show up, I'll try this technique.

    Thanks for the post!
     
  9. Off-roadking

    Off-roadking New Member

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    So i have the axial scx10 wrangler unlimited kit fully built. Right now i have a axial 20t motor in on a traxxas xl-5esc. Although eventually i am going to upgrade the motor but i am a confused noob. I was looking at the tekin roc 412 brushless motor (because i fear that were i live the water isn't the cleanest and when i had a brushed motor on a different car i went through too many!) but i dont know if brushless motors are good on trail trucks/crawlers. I have seen a couple people on here use brushless but mostly everyone uses brushed motors... Anyway im confused and need help!
     
  10. Crankbait

    Crankbait Think...
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    The roc 412 is made for scale rigs, it has the low speed control most brushless motors dont have.
    It is the sensored motors you are looking for for that control.

    The downside to brushless set ups is that they will handily destroy stock Axial drivetrains.
    You will need udgraded driveshafts, axle and trans gears.

    As long as you take care of brushed motors they are a lot better fit for scale rigs like the SCX10.
    Take a look at Holmes Hobbies for the best waterproofed brushed esc made in my opinion- Holmes Hobbies LLC- Your Source for Power!
    They also make great great brushed motors, they are higher than others, but you get what you pay for.

    I also love the Axial AE2 esc, I think after it is waterproofed it is better suited to the SCX10 than the XL5( which has no drag break)
    Don't count out the cheap sealed can motors either if you like to run in the muck, they are cheap and easy to replace.
     
  11. Off-roadking

    Off-roadking New Member

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    Ok This is helpful. I will think about it and let you guys know.
     
  12. CoolKD

    CoolKD New Member

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    I have just stumbled across some info straight from the Axial site abut the Axial/Castle AE-2 ESC.
    Specifications:

    I have looked for this info all around and typically it falls in my lap when I'm not looking for it..
    So YES the AE-2 is specked to handle 3S LiPo with the built in BEC disabled.

    Source: Axial Racing - Axial AE-2 ESC Set-up and Programming
     
  13. Crankbait

    Crankbait Think...
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    That setup guide is posted at the beginning of this thread.
    As far as the 3s lipo, you can run a 3s with the "addition" of an external bec, not with the internal bec disabled.
    If you disable it then the steering servo will fry at 11.1v because even the high voltage units are usually made to run at 7.4v.
     
  14. CoolKD

    CoolKD New Member

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    The first post :slow: lol how could I missed that.. Sorry
    I know, I run a cc bec
    Disable the internal BEC by removing the RED wire from the plug that goes to the reciver I mean..
     
    #94 CoolKD, Feb 9, 2014
    Last edited: Feb 9, 2014
  15. mule2000

    mule2000 New Member

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    Will a revo2.5 body will fit on a scx10 honcho
     
  16. Crankbait

    Crankbait Think...
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    Depends on the wheels base, but most likely yes.
     
  17. Fabulous

    Fabulous Studio Forums Elite
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  18. NZ_Crawler

    NZ_Crawler New Member

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    Thank man, recently got my honcho and this helped alot
     
  19. Jeremy Knight

    Jeremy Knight New Member

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    I took my scx10 dodge power wagon apart down to bare frame rails. I unplugged everything in the electrical box like sterling and throttle and now that I've got it all back together after I greased the axles and put it all back together and water proofed everything. I'm still using stock battery and everything that RTR power wagon come with. It used to make 1 short beep then 1 long beep letting me know it was ready to run but now it only makes 2 short beeps and in my manual it says it should do the to a 2s battery but I don't have that one it. Can anyone please help? I wanting to drive my scx10 it helps relieve my stress!
     
  20. RC4Crawler

    RC4Crawler New Member

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