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Best Chassis for old Hardbody?

Discussion in 'Newbie Q & A' started by SEK494, Sep 16, 2015.

  1. SEK494

    SEK494 Studio Forums Elite
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    Hello everyone,
    I am starting another build and want some Ideas. I have finally after much searching found a Monster Patrol Body. I already own a SCX10 and a TF2 so I want something a little different and economical. I am looking into a Redcat Everest 10 but the wheel base seems way off and the 16 is a little closer in wheelbase size but it runs a smaller motor.

    I think I want to run 1.9s or 2.2s and make this truck a no challenge, waterproof, long trip capable truck. I also want my tires to be as much in the wheel well as possible like they are supposed to be without scrubbing or cutting.

    What I see as a problem right off is the amount of flex the Everest has and the wheel base. Could I make new links to fix the wheelbase?
    And if so, could I do something to limit the flex.
    [​IMG][​IMG]
     
  2. Y2daT

    Y2daT Over Powered RC
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    Yes u can make links using 8/32 threaded rod and traxxas ball ends . then use any tubing of choice to cover the threads. To limit flex make the shocks stiffer or add a bumper inside the shock ( small piece of rubber hose)
     
  3. darkside0914

    darkside0914 Studio Forums Elite
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    check out walters clod body maxstone16 it might help with some of what you need answers for. the maxstone 16 and everest16 are basically the same rig. http://www.rcsparks.com/forum/threads/walters-clod-body-maxstone16.26286/
     
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  4. SEK494

    SEK494 Studio Forums Elite
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    I like that chassis. I think its width is much closer at 10in. the wheel base would have to stretch but it looks like a great starting point. I just don't know if I should go this route or buy frame rails and start piecing a well built machine together. If I could find some narrow axles that were not an arm and a leg i'd be set.
     
  5. SEK494

    SEK494 Studio Forums Elite
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    I will certainly build my own links like I have before. The flex is what worries me. I'm not cutting this rare body up. I'm not even sure I want to risk painting it.
     
  6. Y2daT

    Y2daT Over Powered RC
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    adding the internal bump stops will make the shocks act shorter with out the need to buy shorter shocks ..and less shock travel = less flex or you could get fancy with a sway bar but ive only seen bad reviews for the sway kits for axial rigs ??? but there is the option of making a sway bar or anti roll bar this could eliminate all flex if it is stiff enough. .
    just thoughts ... modding the shocks will be simpler by far
     
  7. SEK494

    SEK494 Studio Forums Elite
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    Today I disassembled the old Monster Patrol rig and set the body on my TF2 frame and my Scx10 frame. Honestly, I over all liked what I saw.

    This is it on my SCX10 frame. I like the 1.9s and even with the body a little lower, the flex does not interact with the wheel wells. However, I have already moved my shock tower up a set of holes and made my own custom shorter links and the rear axle still isn't anywhere close to the wheel wells.
    [​IMG]

    When I set it on my TF2 frame I don't like the 1.55s but if I used a TF2 frame and leaf spring mounts I may be able to fudge a shorter wheel base with custom made links however, the flex would then be more angled and not retract into the wheel wells. Not to mention the problems with the driveshaft that could cause.
    [​IMG]

    Another thing i'm not fond of is axle width. I'd really like to tuck my axles just a tad bit more.
    [​IMG]




    So all in all, I think I made some progress because I now have more of an idea of what and what not I like. I know I said I wanted a cheap rtr kit but looking at this on a frame makes me think it would be the easier way to go. I think I need a axial frame with about 2 inches cut out of the middle of it. As for axles, I'm at a loss. I'd like to tuck them in a bit but I don't think I want to risk getting something that's not sturdy. I may just have to suck it up and live with SCX10 axles.

    So anyone else think I'm onto any good ideas? Any imput is appreciated.
     
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  8. Y2daT

    Y2daT Over Powered RC
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    How about offset rims to tuck them in a bit. ?? Like short course wheels
     
  9. SEK494

    SEK494 Studio Forums Elite
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    Ding Ding Ding! I think I have a winner! Someone just suggested the CC01. Its width is 6.6 Inches and the wheelbase would only be a half inch off. Maybe not the most capable crawler, but it fits the body near perfect. If I could add another half inch to the wheelbase I would be in business. Except for the fact I have no earthly idea how the body would actually mount. But is that really important? lol
     
  10. SEK494

    SEK494 Studio Forums Elite
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    Please, tell me more. I understand the concept but I haven't seen rims that would allow this.
     
  11. Y2daT

    Y2daT Over Powered RC
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    #11 Y2daT, Sep 19, 2015
    Last edited: Sep 19, 2015
  12. SEK494

    SEK494 Studio Forums Elite
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    So I got to put my hands on a lot of RC's this weekend and I held a CCO1. That idea went down the drain real quick. But I have made up my mind. A new friend suggesting I look at these: Drop Kit
    They are mount re locators and with these I can move up the SCX10's rear axle and set it where I want it after making my own links. Not a problem at all for me. I know the SCX10 is more expensive but its a much more reliable chassis and lots of aftermarket parts are available for it.

    The CC01 just did not have the flex near what I thought it would. Now I just need to start tracking down some parts. I think I'm going to look into a used scx10 with metal upgrades if I can find one. It will be awhile before I start this build but stay tuned. I will make sure updates get posted here. Be sure to bug me and make sure I stay on it.
     
  13. Y2daT

    Y2daT Over Powered RC
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    Check eBay for dingo kits . they had them for 199.99 New.
     
  14. walter

    walter Studio Forums Elite
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    The clod body is 7 inches wide, you can run 1.9 tires and be close to what you want . The
    L trail frame is not made anymore i think but the X trail is still listed and can be made to work. The wheel base is 10 3/4 inches on my clod body. good luck with your project .
     
  15. lout

    lout Studio Forums Elite
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    What about the CR01 which is tamiyas "crawler"?
     
  16. darkside0914

    darkside0914 Studio Forums Elite
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    the L trail frame is still available or it would be if it was in stock, http://www.tcscrawlers.com/Losi-Mini-Rock-Crawler-L-Trail-Scale-Chassis-TCS-p/sku17075.htm but I think its gone up in price since I bought mine.
    the maxstone10/everest10 axles aren't too bad and aluminum upgrades can be bought at a reasonable price from nitrorcx.com also any upgrades for the losi mini crawler will work on them since it used the same axles.
     
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  17. andy rudolph

    andy rudolph New Member

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  18. walter

    walter Studio Forums Elite
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    the losi mini crawler upgrades fit the maxstone16 (with a little work) the maxstone10 is scx 10 parts. When I looked for the L trail frame I could not find it.
     
  19. walter

    walter Studio Forums Elite
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    That body would look good on a clodbuster chassis
     
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  20. darkside0914

    darkside0914 Studio Forums Elite
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    oops meant 16 not 10. the 2 biggest flaws I found in the 16 axles was the weak steering knuckles and the plastic diff locker both of which are available in aluminum, and to find the L trail chassis you have to go to competition rock crawlers on the tcs crawlers website , then crawler model specific aftermarket parts, and go to team losi mini rock crawler that's where I found it after they changed the web page, but the link I put in goes directly to it. and I agree it would look good on a clod chassis.
     

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