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Best upgrades for Traxxas Raptor 2WD (Slash) and GO!!!

Discussion in 'Short Course' started by Oddball RC, Jul 12, 2016.

  1. Oddball RC

    Oddball RC Member

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    I am new to the RC World.

    I just bought a Traxxas Raptor 2WD (Slash) and I am wondering some of the best upgrade options for it.

    Thank you,
    Oddball RC
     
  2. chetmotox

    chetmotox Studio Forums Elite
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    Well I don't have a 2wd but I do have a 4x4 Slash and there are a few upgrades I've done and am needing to do.

    #1 RPM upgrades for any parts you break. RPM makes awesome parts. From the start I put on RPM A-arms and love them.

    #2 Tires. The stock tires aren't very good. I still haven't upgraded mine but I really should...I just keep spending money on my other RCs since the Slash works.

    #3 I put on a Robinson Racing steel spur gear. I don't know if I needed to but I did and haven't had any problems.

    #4 I need to upgrade my driveshafts. I am alright with 2S power but every time I decide I want to try 3S when my 2S packs are all drained...and I ALWAYS promise to "take it easy" and about 5 minutes later...BAM!!! There goes an axle stub. So I really should upgrade them but instead I keep replacing them with stock ones.
     
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  3. Oddball RC

    Oddball RC Member

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    Thanks for the info.

    I have heard and read that RPM parts are the way to go.

    I will have to look into some tires and Robinson Racing, I haven't heard of them.

    I know the booklet said not to go above a 2S Lipo...

    My truck is blue and I want to max it out in all blue so I have been looking for blue parts as well.

    thanks again,
    OBRC
     
  4. Mogg2112

    Mogg2112 Studio Forums Elite
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    The 2wd Slash and the 4x4 Slash are different animals. I only have experience with the 2wd version, so I'll share my suggestions. Aluminum caster blocks... these are necessary for all 2wd Traxxas vehicles and they need to be aluminum since the RPM ones will flex and still allow the king pins to bend on impact. I also recommend RPM bearing carriers front and rear, RPM suspension arms front and rear, aluminum shock caps, and of course, better tires. Everyone loves Pro-Line tires and a set of Trenchers or Badlands for the rear are usually a fantastic start.

    Those upgrades will make the truck far more durable, but I'd say the only 100% essential upgrade are the aluminum caster blocks... you'll break a stock one on your first crash almost guaranteed and they're a notorious weak point. The stock drive shafts are fine on 2S... you can get better ones, but they're not really necessary unless you plan on putting lots of power (3S) through the drive line. Stock gears are also fine... you may want to look into 32p gears at some point down the road. They're far more durable than 48p.
     
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  5. Oddball RC

    Oddball RC Member

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    I'll look into the aluminum castor blocks...I want to see if I can find some blue ones...

    Thank you for the advice.

    OBRC
     
  6. jdrada18

    jdrada18 Member

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    One thing that I strongly suggest getting is aluminum shock caps. I have the STRC blue aluminum ones and they work great. I jump my truck a lot and I didn't want the mess of a stock shock cap popping off. The next thing that I did was get rpm a arms because I destroyed one of the stock ones during a nasty crash. The rpm ones have held up really nicely for over 4 months now and yes, they are blue. I also have a strc blue aluminum bulk head and next I will be getting some strc aluminum caster blocks. In blue of course. So fare I have been lucky and haven't broke the stock caster blocks but I just recently installed the castle creations sct combo so Im sure my luck will run out.
     
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  7. Y2daT

    Y2daT Over Powered RC
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    on the 32 pitch gears they are also easier to get a decent gear mesh on and vary forgiving ..
    my scx10 4x4 is running a 6S powered setup with 32pitch gears traxxas pinion and Kimbrough derlin spur ( brand/type of plastic ) i have literally bent the trans input shaft and the spur wobbles like crazy .. yet it keeps going and going ... a slightly too lose 48 pitch set up would have stripped out instantly ..
     
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  8. Oddball RC

    Oddball RC Member

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    Thanks for the info.

    I'll look into the shock caps.

    OBRC


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  9. Oddball RC

    Oddball RC Member

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    I'll keep that in mind.

    Thanks,
    OBRC


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  10. Y2daT

    Y2daT Over Powered RC
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    also keeping the spur gear plastic leaves a inexpensive weak link ... and shaves drive train weight /vs a metal spur gear .. I run RRP transmission gears . and I want to say MIP may have the best drive axles https://shop.stormerhobbies.com/product-p/MIP13101.htm
    .
    this should be a good set of trans gears .. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Hot-Racing-...840918?hash=item43e6413116:g:8OQAAOSwZLdXPf8O . hot racing has some fail parts but mostly wins .. and there gears have a great reputation . ( based on my findings and opinion)
    .
    all these beefy parts will allow you to add lots of power without breaking the drive train every time you go out .. so you can go 3s or 4s or 6s ..... caution the more volts the harder the crash .. and the ESC and motor need to be able to handle it .. .. with the RMP upgrades and solid drive train it would be a solid basher on a 3s setup ... meaning lots of fun and little down time
    .
    .. the stock traxxas rigs are Farly tough so you can always upgrade as things get broke .. and have fun rcing ...
     
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  11. Oddball RC

    Oddball RC Member

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    Thanks for the info.

    My budget is limited, so it will be replace parts as they break.

    Thanks again,
    OBRC
     
  12. Y2daT

    Y2daT Over Powered RC
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    exactly no need to rush the upgrades ... just have fun ... something always breaks eventually .. and when it does use it as a reason to upgrade the broken part .. the RPM a arms n stuff cost only a few bucks more then stock parts .. sometimes the same ... the Hot racing gear set is reasonably priced .. if you strip a gear then consider them ( if not running big power they are not necessary )
    .
    the stock drive axles are decent also .. so no need to rush into them either .. the only thing i would consider before needed it is a rpm front bumper ... it alone can save you lots of broke parts in a head on crash . also if you like to drive it after dark .. you can get light kits from ebay for under 20.00 that plug into the receiver and have a controller so you get functional turn signals and brake lights ... my set has a jumper that makes all the lights stay on 50% then brighten for signals and brakes ...ect
     
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  13. Oddball RC

    Oddball RC Member

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    Thanks for the info.

    The light kits sound interesting. I will have to check those out.

    Thanks,
    OBRC


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  14. o2rustyw02

    o2rustyw02 Active Member

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    2wd slash is my 1st rc. I went with sidewinder 3 esc and motor set up. I can tell u, if u go 3s , u will be breaking things lol. Mip drive shafts a must have. The roll pin in the layshaft, replace it with a drill bit, I was breaking one on every battery run. Also 3s is harder on the differential, I blew up 2 wile bashing. Once one wheel has lost traction, it will spool up fast and them boom. I replaced 2 before going to 1 million weight oil. Acts alot like a posi and my differential hasn't blew up yet. Aluminum caster blocks are a must even on stock setup, was 1st part I broke lol. Also, upgrade slipper pads to 5352R (traxxas part number) it's a slipper rebuild for revo but the pads are what u want and they fit right in. Like I said, I'm running 3s so u may not need all those things. Hope that helps
     
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  15. Oddball RC

    Oddball RC Member

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    Thanks for the reply.

    I will have to look into those.

    OBRC


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  16. Thwmathue

    Thwmathue Studio Forums Elite
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    With everything. Listed so far the only thing I would recommend. Is shoe goo the plastic washers to the body mount wholes that keeps them from ripping out. And gorilla tape on the inside of the body at the wheel wells and the door panels. Beyond that the slash is a very rugged machine.
     
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  17. Kklimek

    Kklimek Member

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    Must have:
    1. Aluminum shock caps if you're jumping - plastic caps like to blow off
    2. Aluminum C-Hubs so you won't bend pins and won't break C-Hubs so easily (stock one will break for sure)
    3. Body "savers" from RPM https://www.amazon.com/RPM-Snap-Tite-Saver-Black/dp/B0006O7QIO - protects body from both sides and are hard to loose as they snap to the body

    Nice to have:
    1. RPM rear bumper mount - stock one has this "rail" on the one side that likes to jump off it's place if you mess up your landing - pretty annoying
    2. RPM hybrid gearbox - I haven't break stock gearbox yet but I've heard it tends to. RPM gearbox looks fine, has adjustable toe (only 2 set ups but still), and metal plate that takes off some heat.

    If it breaks:
    All parts that brake (A-ARMS, nerf bars, skid plates, bumpers, shock towers) replace with RPM
     
  18. K Dizzle

    K Dizzle Member

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    I only had one prob when I bought my 2wd slash...tires=meh. So I got badlands from proline. Tons of traction and flies on sand now. Then I needed a castle sv3 and lipo and such. I got the proline bellcranks too to get rid of the vague servo saver that was stock. Other than that I would recommend RPM parts , didn't break anything, just like the adjustments on their control arms better.

    I play with RC stuff too much, oh wells.
     
  19. BenFink

    BenFink Studio Forums Elite
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    For the C hubs I believe rpm makes some replacement ones if you dont like how aluminum looks. I havent had a nerf bar break, A arms I would recommend replacing with rpm, I believe the skid plate comes with the front bumper, I could be wrong, also never have had issues with shock towers.


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  20. Kklimek

    Kklimek Member

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    Rpm C hubs bends so pins bend also. Thats why I suggested aluminum one


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