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Discussion in 'Scale Build Projects' started by SomeDirtyCuban, Sep 12, 2017.

  1. SomeDirtyCuban

    SomeDirtyCuban Active Member

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    Ok so I created this body from scratch.
    It isn't complete so I have alot of sanding left to do and I need to redo the hood as it isn't centered properly. But I've made this using cell foam for my cc01.
    I want to harden it to be as durable as possible. I've seen a post where a guy made a body on his own using ca foam safe glue, accelerator, epoxy, fiberglass cloth and resin. How ever I went to my local Hobby Shop(hobby town usa) and a guy there that is familiar working with planes had told me resin with a few drops of hardener would give me the results I'm looking for. Any advise from you guys? I really don't want this to warp as it is my first complete body build ever. But he claims no melting would happen, now I'm just curious about a warp.[​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG]

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  2. walter

    walter Studio Forums Elite
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    test it on some scrap, that body looks good
     
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  3. Gromit

    Gromit Studio Forums Elite
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    yep, looks very nice...

    Impoortant about fibreglass is that there are two different resins in common use (and I don't know how many more in uncommen use), Polyester and Epoxy.
    "Resin with a few drops of hardener" sound like your airman is referring to polyester, which I think has some disadvantages for your application:

    Firstly, it sets quite quickly, giving you little time to work it, especially when it is warm. Curing time can be varied by the amount of hardener added, but I'd be afraid that if you use too little, it may stay tacky forever. Anyway, I don't have any 1st hand experience with polyester resin so don't quote me on that.
    Secondly, it's a more aggressive solvent than epoxy an thus more prone to melt away your body. As I understand it, the guy in the post you mention uses foam-safe superglue to create a barrier layer to keep the resin from touching the foam directly.
    Thirdly, it stinks like hell.

    Epoxy gives you more time to work with it and is altogether the higher quality resin. However, you need a good scale, since the proportions of resin and hardener are very important to get right. It's more expansive, but in the small quantity needed it shouldn't break the bank. Further, it may still melt the foam, so a trial on some scrap is still a good idea. And that it stinks less than polyester does not mean it's healthy.

    Than there is the cloth, which comes in various weights, but also in different weave patterns. I used twill weave (I hope the translation server is right), which is easier to work around three-dimensional shapes. And to be clear, that body has a lot more and sharper corners than the ship's hulls that i did. It is not a beginner's project for the faint of heart.

    I was fortunate to be in a boat modelling club and look over the shoulder of a guy who was very routined with fibreglass and pick up some advice. Maybe nowadays YouTube can take this place. My first attempt with a "just-do-it-and-cross-bridges-when-you-get-there" mentality was clearly a case for the rubbish bin. My first after watchin a pro turned out really good. Maybe you can ask the airman for help.

    One thing I do is create a margin to work over the later edge, since I find it easier to just cut back later than to exactly hit the edge with the fibreglass. The pros are allowed to scoff, but i find it helpful.

    So, that's about all that comes to mind about fibreglassing.
     
    #3 Gromit, Sep 13, 2017
    Last edited: Sep 13, 2017
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  4. Antho11

    Antho11 Studio Forums Elite
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    That's super cool body, looks wicked! These guys have good suggestion.
     
  5. SomeDirtyCuban

    SomeDirtyCuban Active Member

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    Thank you so much on your input, I am going to try it out on scrap and see how it turns out. If not I'll stick to the other guys how to. But I'll keep you guys posted with the build once I get a chance to attack it some more

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  6. SomeDirtyCuban

    SomeDirtyCuban Active Member

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    Thank you for your compliment, it means alot

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  7. Gromit

    Gromit Studio Forums Elite
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    Here's another thougt:

    Stop by and have chat with a professional fibreglasser or boat builder. Maybe they can help trying something out on scrap material, thus you avoid buying a pot of resin that turns out unusable. I talked to one who even let me take a marmalede jar full of resin home for a contribution to the coffee piggy bank. These guys buy the stuff by the barrel at a much cheaper rate than we pay when we buy it by the kilogram (most of which will go bad on the shelf).

    I currently live in a flat without a garden or balcony, which sucks for various reasons, one of which is that working with stinky, unhealthy stuff is problematic. So i took my latest ship project to an actual boat builder, who covered it in fibreglass for about twice the price that i would otherwise pay for the material alone, and i had the Feeling they had quite some fun doing it. After this i wonder whether i ever touch this stuff myself ever again.
     
  8. SomeDirtyCuban

    SomeDirtyCuban Active Member

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    Alright so here's my update.
    I decided not to do the epoxy/ resin fiberglass route. Instead I stumbled on some guy that builds cos-play costumes from foam and this stuff (smooth on smooth cast 65d).
    It claims to turn things into plastic. What it actually does is add a layer of sandable and printable plastic to the foam. I literally just did this so I guess we'll see what happens. I really hope I didn't just destroy this project as I've been waiting for some solution for a couple weeks and that would suck. I'll keep you guys posted either way![​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG]

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  9. SomeDirtyCuban

    SomeDirtyCuban Active Member

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  10. 00whynot

    00whynot Moderator
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    it might be slow going. but just pick an end and keep working on it. good things come in time.
    sanding is a pain. just take your time. i definitely would not add more. the hair should sand down and be un noticeable once you add paint.
     
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  11. Magnat007

    Magnat007 Proud SCX10 Owner
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    All is not lost... an Apocalypse paint job could rescue this body..
    Start with a base color of your choosing, then where the body has "gone wrong" add some rust brown paint.. .
     
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  12. SomeDirtyCuban

    SomeDirtyCuban Active Member

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    That's a good idea if I can't save it, that's what I'll do

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  13. SomeDirtyCuban

    SomeDirtyCuban Active Member

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    Ok so I have added a couple more thin ish layers of smooth cast managed to sand it out alittle then used primer/filler to fill in some imperfections and now it's starting to come along great![​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG]

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  14. Antho11

    Antho11 Studio Forums Elite
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    Keep up the work it's starting to come together nicely.
     
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  15. SomeDirtyCuban

    SomeDirtyCuban Active Member

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    Thank you so much I'll post some more progress pics soon

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  16. SomeDirtyCuban

    SomeDirtyCuban Active Member

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    Well after a loooong day of bondo, sanding, primering, repeat this is the end result for today. I realized the back door would've been too small to make it 4 doors as I wanted to. :/ either way I'm still proud of the progress [​IMG][​IMG][​IMG]

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  17. Little Rascle

    Little Rascle Studio Forums Elite
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    Keeps on looking better.

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  18. walter

    walter Studio Forums Elite
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    looks cool
     
  19. SomeDirtyCuban

    SomeDirtyCuban Active Member

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    Almost there, almost done![​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG]

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  20. SomeDirtyCuban

    SomeDirtyCuban Active Member

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    There are some minor blemishes
    But overall I'm very happy with this build.

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