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Monster mono

Discussion in 'Boat Build Projects' started by Tombsy, Feb 2, 2015.

  1. Tombsy

    Tombsy Boat Racing Fanatic
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    I've been looking for a hull to run electric in Open Mono against the nitro and gas boats. The class can be any size or type of powerplant. A friend had an older 42" Twincraft hull meant for .45 - .67 nitro engines that I think will work. I already have a ridiculously large motor, a NEU 2230 for a 10s battery setup, and a 300 amp Swordfish esc. You can see the size difference next to a 3656 motor. Pretty crazy.
    I adapted a motor mount that drops in between the rails where the nitro motor would sit.
    Still have to figure out and install the proper hardware for it and make a waterproof hatch.

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  2. Antho11

    Antho11 Studio Forums Elite
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    10s and the size of the motor=awesomeness! You should post a video when it's done.
     
  3. Tombsy

    Tombsy Boat Racing Fanatic
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    Thanks, here's an example of what I'll be up against. lol
    T-mono is max 10s and 60" long.

     
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  4. Tombsy

    Tombsy Boat Racing Fanatic
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    Finally back to work on the boats, went on a fly fishing trip to Mexico and now it's back to winter. But it hasn't been too bad here weather wise, reminds me of the weather during the Olympics in '88.
    All the holes in transom have been filled with glued in dowels and I'll start from scratch with new holes.
    I have most of the hardware for the build I'm just deciding whether to go with a strut or a stinger for the flex shaft. I'm leaning towards a strut and trying a "flooded stuffing tube". In nitro mono hulls where the brass flex shaft exits the hull it's not water tight to allow for adjusting the strut. Which doesn't work for electric boats when your trying to keep things dry.
    A flooded tube is a carbon fibre (or other material) tube sealed at the motor end around the brass flex tube and left open at the transom end so the flex tube that is supported by the strut can be moved up and down for adjustment.
    I just finished cutting out some 3K twill CF cloth to reinforce the hull bottom and sides, and will add some 2lb pour foam to the nose. These boats can really get damaged if they get airborne at 60+ mph and I'm going to try and beef it up all I can. The top deck might need something under it as well, lots of stories of hatches caving in if they land hard upside down.

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  5. RustyWrench

    RustyWrench ...I Always Edit...
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    @Tombsy Man I could learn so much from you. I guess I do actually, from your threads. One of these days I'm going to invite myself to visit you...




    Dean
     
  6. Tombsy

    Tombsy Boat Racing Fanatic
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    Welcome anytime Dean. (and any other boat builders that want to hang out and BS.)
     
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  7. Antho11

    Antho11 Studio Forums Elite
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    I'd like hang out if someone will like to get me a plane ticket! Awesome build!
     
  8. Tombsy

    Tombsy Boat Racing Fanatic
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    Still plugging along. The weather was so nice my buddy talked me into going to the track to run a couple trucks, haven't done that in years. Now I have a couple trucks to fix LOL.
    The Cf is done, not the prettiest but hopefully it should strengthen it up a bit. The locations for the new hardware on the transom are being laid out, the rudder blade had an inch cut off and was sharpened up (knife sharpener works great lol). I made a servo bracket out of a piece of aluminum angle and shined it up. The CF esc mount I already had, it just needed some brackets (that still need to be polished) to attach to the rails.

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  9. Tombsy

    Tombsy Boat Racing Fanatic
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    Added some 2 lb pour foam to help strengthen the nose. It's messy stuff, you only have 30 seconds or so to pour it in after mixing.

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  10. Tombsy

    Tombsy Boat Racing Fanatic
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    Got all the soldering done on the motor and esc. I tried out some new SupraX 8mm connectors on the motor wires, neat idea no heat shrink needed. There are two sets of monster 8 gauge battery wires on the esc that connect to a Hifei cap bank/parallel terminal that has built in 8mm bullet connectors. The Revo 10s batteries got two sets of 8mm bullets as well because they are made as two 5s packs shrink wrapped together.
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    I milled a mount for the cap bank from Delrin that I think turned out pretty well. An HV BEC from Dimension is also soldered to the terminals and mounted to the esc.

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    The small post is an anti-spark terminal, after you connect the neg battery wires you touch the pos to the post for a few seconds then connect normally. Gets rid of the big "pop" when you connect a 10s pack that can arc and damage connectors.
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    A coat of plasti-dip and a of couple strips of Lexan screwed down to hold it in and the bec all attached.

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  11. RustyWrench

    RustyWrench ...I Always Edit...
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    Keep up the great work... I'm starting to feel inspired to finish the 1/10 Hydro Build I started over a year ago...




    Dean
     
  12. Antho11

    Antho11 Studio Forums Elite
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    Heavy duty electronics for crazy voltage! When I connect a 3s pack I see it arc, I can only imagine when you connect the 10s without the anti-spark. Sick build!
     
  13. Tombsy

    Tombsy Boat Racing Fanatic
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    Well one part I was a little worried about is done, the flooded stuffing tube. I used a piece of CF tube and capped one end with a piece of CF plate that had a hole drilled to fit the brass tube. Then it was epoxied on and sanded round. The other end is open and the brass goes into the strut.

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    I made a 1/4" shaft to fit in the motor coupler to keep everything lined up and used some strips of CF cloth and epoxy to attach the tube. The motor end is also supported with a grease fitting/support. Here's the test fitting.

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    The tube is done just have to squirt a bit of epoxy inside the tube to seal the brass. Steering servo is mounted and the seal/boot epoxied while I was doing the tube.

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    You can see the point of the whole operation here, the strut can be adjusted up and down for different size props without changing the angle and it's watertight.

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    I was going to make battery trays but I ended up ordering a pair but they should be coming this week. I'm going to try something different for attaching them, black aquarium sealant. It is supposed to work better than epoxy if the hull flexes it doesn't crack. Then I think it's on to the hatch and some water lines I guess. My buddy has some fiberglass molds for some hatches and he figures one of them might be made to fit.
     
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  14. RustyWrench

    RustyWrench ...I Always Edit...
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    Man... That stuffing tube mod is pure genius.. Keep all of us in the loop. I want to know if you end up with any issues..



    Dean
     
  15. Tombsy

    Tombsy Boat Racing Fanatic
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    Thanks Dean, I went a bit overboard with the resin on the CF cloth, it shouldn't really be that thick and shiny it should be almost matt like the cloth. I think it worked out pretty well but we'll see.
     
  16. Tombsy

    Tombsy Boat Racing Fanatic
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    On the home stretch now, I put in some plywood to make a "lip" for the sub hatch.

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    Used the aquarium silicone to attach the battery trays seems like it worked pretty well.

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    Got to have a hook for emergency retrieval, hope to never use it lol.

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    Cut out a sub hatch from Lexan, I was thinking of some type of cowl to go over the Lexan and I'm going to try some ply covered in CF cloth. I've laid it up between some sheets of wax paper and a sheet of glass with weights on it so we'll see tomorrow if its any good.

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    I'm not going to paint the gelcoat so I guess its time to install the hardware. Everything that is bolted thru the transom gets sealed with Marine Goop. With any luck the next pictures should be all finished!
     
  17. Tombsy

    Tombsy Boat Racing Fanatic
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    Man it was a lot more work than I figured but it's done and no major screw ups, a couple issues bolting thru with the transom being so thick but I think its good. Instead of a cowl I made a plate of plywood sandwiched between fiberglass and carbon fiber cloth to bolt over the pexi hatch and give it some protection in a crash. Still have to adjust the strut and setup the radio, I setup the esc on the computer, it was a little scary plugging in 10s the first time.
    She weighs in at 18 lbs. with two 5s packs even heavier with the two 10s packs. LOL
    I'm going to the pond tomorrow to test and break in my other winter build, the tunnel hull outboard to get it ready for our first Calgary race on May 2-3.
    We're setting up the course on Sunday so I might try out this monster.

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  18. 00whynot

    00whynot Moderator
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    very impressive. nice work on the build so far.
     
  19. Tombsy

    Tombsy Boat Racing Fanatic
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    We had our work day at Elliston Lake, set the marks for our course and did some work on the drivers stand but I got a chance to maiden both my winter builds, the Vision tunnel and this mono. The tunnel ran great no bad habits but I was taking it easy breaking in the motor really rich.
    The mono ran fantastic, great speed, handled great but I only did a few laps to check it out. Dry as a bone inside and the motor and esc were cold. The logger showed it only pulled 123 amps max so there is lots more in her. Time for a bigger prop. And video, I have to draft a cameraman. I'm hoping to go to the pond this week and I'll try to get some shots. I've got 5 boats to get ready for our first race on May 2.
     
  20. RcLoveer

    RcLoveer New Member

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    Wow the boat looks awesome!

    I need your help again lol....

    I have a similar hull to yours but 60" X 17".......It's a beast.

    It was built by my father years ago to run a large gas engine..
    I will like to convert it to brushless electric but i want some speed.
    I need your help to get the boat running my budget is around 500-600$...

    As you can see its pretty thick fiberglass and its pretty h
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