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Old Fart Budget SCX-10 Build

Discussion in 'Scale Build Projects' started by Mill Philler, May 11, 2015.

  1. Mill Philler

    Mill Philler Member

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    I started my SCX-10 build by answering two ads on the KeeJieGee newspaper on my 286 PC (updated to near 386) using the Information Super Hi-way. One was for a Dingo kit less axles, body and C-Frame. The other was for a pair of prebuilt axles housings complete.

    Again using the Info Super Hiway, I was able to view my old friend Mr Tower's catalog on my computor screen. oooh, very exciting... I reccomend the experience.

    I immediately ripped out a mail order form from the back of one of my old Tower catalogs and sent Mr Tower in Champaign Illinois USA a letter along with it. I told him not to worry about my 30 year old unaddressed warranty claim for my Tamiya Grasshopper ser# 0146 and assured him that there were no hard feelings as I had traded it off at the Losi dealership for a low mileage Duratrax some 15 years ago and it was somebody elses problem now. I also explained to Mr. Tower that I was uncomfortable sending my Chargex number through the mail and would he mind if he billed me later. He replied and reminded me that I could send a money order; which I did.

    Mr Tower must have remembered me because he convienently made no mention of the $2.31 Tamiya warranty claim for the Grasshopper that I had written him about several times before. He is no doubt surrounded by brilliant accountants who would recognize the hit on their bottom line should Tamiya not authorize the claim.

    A while later, I mailed a letter to a Mr. Asiatees who lives in Hongkong with an order for more stuff. I sent the letter the cheapest possible way; to help keep my build costs down and also because I have been worried about air mail over the Pacific ever since that poor young Miss Ehrhart went missing; not to mention the recent Air India disaster that undoubtedly was carrying mail. His assistant wrote me back (air mail!) saying that the order would be filled in a few days and by the time I receive this that it was likely on its way by airmail as well. She had completely ignored my advice that transporting by ship and arranging it to be put on rail at the port of Vancouver to be sent east to me, would be in my experience; the most reliable method.

    I sent another letter to a Mr Bizarre in America and yet another to another man from China.

    I visited my LHS the other day for some things for the build and got me some of those new lipo suction batteries (apparently these were originally designed for girls who were a little too big where the pin fits) and a charger to boot. He kind of laughed at me when I asked for 75Mhz AM crystals. I guess he is just not up on the most modern things yet. I would have spent more time to enlighten him, but I had to pee and was worried about the battery in my medi-chair scooter.
    Update: The parts I ordered from my old friend Mr Tower arrived. He must be on vacation in Reno because one of the boxes came from there.

    Here is the build so far. I know it is not done in the order that Axial would like you to do it, but I spilled half a warm Pilsner that I had been sipping on for two days , all over the instructions.

    I mocked up the build to this point to do some measurements for links and extensions.
     
    #1 Mill Philler, May 11, 2015
    Last edited: May 23, 2015
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  2. Mill Philler

    Mill Philler Member

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    Here is picture of the truck so far. Waiting on extensions for links to build close to 330mm WB to fit 2007 Chev for T-maxx. I have thus far held off on drive shafts. Will probably need to use Wraith length? Does anyone know what I am up against there? As well, I am considering turning the motor around, but have now done much research to see what changes may be needed to incorporate this.

    http://www.rcsparks.com/forum/media/dscf4780.2380/full
     
    #2 Mill Philler, May 11, 2015
    Last edited: May 11, 2015
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  3. darkside0914

    darkside0914 Studio Forums Elite
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    wraith length drive shafts will work fine at that wheel base. my rig has a 340mm wheelbase and I use a stock wraith shaft on the front and a junfac carbon steel shaft for added strength in the rear , no matter what shafts you use id go with the cvd style shafts instead of u joint style shafts ,simply because the cvd shafts are smoother operating and last longer IMO, especially on lifted rigs with sharper joint angles.
     
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  4. Feenix509

    Feenix509 Studio Forums Elite
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    What frame rails are those they almost look like fancy scx10 rails are they costume
     
  5. darkside0914

    darkside0914 Studio Forums Elite
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  6. Mill Philler

    Mill Philler Member

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    Yep their Integy frame rails. Dirt cheap. About 20 US plus shipping. Available in a few colors. I went with them because I like the contrast while working on it. Not really scale I know, but I like to call it affordable bling. The King shocks on the other hand... If you have ever spent too much money courting a beautiful big eyed girl; well you know what I mean.
     
    #6 Mill Philler, May 12, 2015
    Last edited: May 12, 2015
  7. Magnat007

    Magnat007 Proud SCX10 Owner
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    I am sorry but I could not get past the fact your surfing the web on a Near upgraded to 386.. 286!... I mean come on thats gotta be 33ghz at maximum (and thats OVER CLOCKING)
    I mean you have to be running linux in order for it to even hook up to the net... but I digress...

    Hell I have Dual core PC's in the shed that are faster than what your using...

    Anyway... the rig is looking fine... Wraith driveshafts are a bit longer than the ones used on a SCX10...
    MrAsiatees should be able to assist you in getting a certain Top- something set of driveshafts to fit.
     
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  8. DRUNKMAR1NE

    DRUNKMAR1NE Studio Forums Elite
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    Umm I'm pretty sure the e/tmaxx bodies fit the scx10 that's what I have on mine and if u are talking about the stock body that's a ford
     
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  9. Mill Philler

    Mill Philler Member

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    330mm WB Chev 4 door from Pro-Line. It's a 1/8 body but from the few builds I seen on SCX-10 it improves the scale of the large tires. However the ones I seen put on 313mm with body cut to fit just didn't look that great. Thus all my playing around with links/extensions and holding off on drive shaft until I get the WB built while keeping the diffs at an angle that will work.

    Like this:
    http://www.ebay.ca/itm/Pro-Line-200...Domain_0&hash=item2edb023ece&autorefresh=true
     
    #9 Mill Philler, May 12, 2015
    Last edited: May 12, 2015
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  10. Mill Philler

    Mill Philler Member

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    On the Links, I am using a complete 4-Link Set for 313mm and 2 extra 130mm Links, getting rid of the 112mm links and ordered a set of 8mm extensions. Might still need a pair of 13mm ext once I get fitting the body or even just more 8mm to clock the axles appropriately. Then clock thesteering on the front axle back to stock angle using axial clockable C-Hubs. I hope it doesn't come to that though.

    Rear Upper: 130mm
    Rear Lower: 138mm w/ext
    Front Upper: 122mm
    Front Lower: 130mm w/ext

    When my 8mm ext come today, I will test my geo-trig calculation that I should get a WB around 327mm (12.87")
     
    #10 Mill Philler, May 12, 2015
    Last edited: May 12, 2015
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  11. Mill Philler

    Mill Philler Member

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    [​IMG] [​IMG]

    Well great news for me. Apparently I can do Trigonometry. The WB came out to 326-327mm, aproximately 12.85"
     
    #11 Mill Philler, May 23, 2015
    Last edited: May 23, 2015
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  12. Mill Philler

    Mill Philler Member

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    May have to change the thread title from "Budget Build" to Mild Overkill Build.

    Just not sure if these MIP Wraith drive shaft set (1116) will actually help. The sliding portion is exactly the same lenght as the SCX10 for 313mm wiith longer end links. May have to look at some other brands of drive shaft or risk trying MIP 13360 for SCX-10. (pin through version of 10145) As they were made to fit even some of the shorter WB than 313, I worry that at 327mm they may be too short.

    [​IMG]
     
    #12 Mill Philler, May 23, 2015
    Last edited: May 24, 2015
  13. Y2daT

    Y2daT Over Powered RC
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    looking good :) and you have the good setup as of now with the reverse trans and forward battery mount ... +1
    .
    as for shafts it may be best to measure and order by length .
    a honcho has a 313mm wheel base . so honcho length shafts may work ????
    I am using Junfac shafts . they are tough and can be ordered by length but get ready to wait 3 weeks to get them in . http://www.junfac.com/shop/?main_page=index&cPath=27
    .
    also if you go with Junfac shafts . ditch the grub screws and use axial drive shaft pins instead .
     
    #13 Y2daT, May 24, 2015
    Last edited: May 24, 2015
  14. Mill Philler

    Mill Philler Member

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    I ended up using 11116 MIP Drive Shafts for the Wraith. The shafts seemed identical length as the 13360 for the SCX-10. The difference being that two of the pin through ends are a couple of mm longer. This allowed for nice clearance of the spur gear cover. However, I did use one extra short end (11118) to improve front axle drive line angle. I added and additional 8mm to the rear top links, to clock the axle to fix the rear drive line angle. This was a little too much. Drive shaft runs very straight, but axle housing looks weird from behind.

    So I ordered a set of (4) 13mm link extensions to put 2 on the top rear links in place of 8mm, and will add the 8mm to the 137mm bottom rear links, as well as using the remaining two 13mm extensions to add to the left over 112mm links, these 125mm assemblies will replace the top front 122mm links, and give me an ever so slightly improved front shaft angle.

    My new net Wheel Base should be between 332 and 333mm, aprox 13.15 inches.
     
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  15. Y2daT

    Y2daT Over Powered RC
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    good deal. MIP are the ticket
     
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  16. Mill Philler

    Mill Philler Member

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    I sure liked their weight and design. I was disappointed on how good the strength of their "Blue Gel" Thread Locker was. I tried backing out one of their Pin/screws through the axle pin though and broke it's head. I tried drilling it out with 5/64 crappy tire bit and it barely made a notice to the way too hard screw. Which is probably why it's head blew to pieces. Good to have hard, but too hard makes brittle and un-drillable. Its a delicate balance.

    In short, I doubt that I will use any MIP shafts in the future. Their failure to respond to specific requests to length requirements for my build combined with the engineering and extra expense of buying all the extra parts to an already most expensive system on the market has turned me off.

    Even their largest re-salers seemed to have limited product knowledge. For the price of these there should be people on the phone dammit. :) Even LHS (3) could not fill me in more than what I read in 5 min before I jumped in my truck (I mean medi-chair) to drive down there.
     
    #16 Mill Philler, May 27, 2015
    Last edited: May 28, 2015
  17. Y2daT

    Y2daT Over Powered RC
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    ouch that sucks.
     
  18. lout

    lout Studio Forums Elite
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    I know that rc4wd and junfac.com have the drive shaft lengths on their websites.
     
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  19. Mill Philler

    Mill Philler Member

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    It will probably run forever they way it is. I will run it until the pin falls out (not likely as more than half the threads are intact and well locked). I suppose next winter that I will possibly upgrade axles or put some slower gears in the rear diff, as the pin and MIP end are likely throw aways.
     
    #19 Mill Philler, May 28, 2015
    Last edited: May 28, 2015
  20. Y2daT

    Y2daT Over Powered RC
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    just hang on to them. this hobby is addictive. there may be some future rigs that need those parts. sorry about the bad luck. we all have it sometimes. but when the rig is ripping through the trail/course it is all worth it then
     
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