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Redcat Vortex SS . Should I upgrade or sell

Discussion in 'Newbie Q & A' started by Cameron Haga, Dec 13, 2015.

  1. Cameron Haga

    Cameron Haga Studio Forums Elite
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    I bought my first RC about a month ago and it was the redcat vortex SS . Since then the rear differential stripped out and now it won't fire . I've had fun working on it but I'm just curious if it is worth putting money into ?
     
  2. Y2daT

    Y2daT Over Powered RC
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    they all break . some are better than others but all rc's are breakable . so look into repairing it .
    then decide if you would rather have a different model. it will sell better and for bigger $$ if it works.
     
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  3. Cameron Haga

    Cameron Haga Studio Forums Elite
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    I'm pretty sure it's just the glow plug . I don't have a hobby shop around here so I have to order all my parts and then wait . I've got a few on the way
     
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  4. rcwoody22

    rcwoody22 New Member

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    I'd say fix it unless it will cost more than you want to spend on it to get it going. The way I look at it is repairs are part of the fun of owning a hobby rc.
     
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  5. Cameron Haga

    Cameron Haga Studio Forums Elite
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    I'm going to . It's just a glow plug I think . I only ran about a half gallon of fuel . I thought I'd get more run time than that . I think I'm going electric . Thanks for your input
     
  6. Y2daT

    Y2daT Over Powered RC
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    If you give us some ideas Of what kind of rc you think you want ... or what you want it to be able to do . we can help guide you to some models that fit your RC needs.
     
  7. Cameron Haga

    Cameron Haga Studio Forums Elite
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    I want something all around BA . I want to be able to rip around and climb and run through the mud and jump. I like working on them so I'm down with getting something and upgrading the shit out of it . I was thinking axial because I like the frames but the high end ones are kinda out of my price range .
     
  8. Y2daT

    Y2daT Over Powered RC
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    most of the axial rigs we have are slow ... but they can be made faster with upgrades.
    The yetti is the quickest rtr axial i know of that fits what you are after. it comes brushless 3s ready. http://www.axialracing.com/products/ax90026
    and there is a optional 2 speed kit for the transmission. The new axial Bomber runs the same transmission but comes with a brushed motor and esc ... so it will be slower. http://www.axialracing.com/products/ax90048 ..
    I run a scx10 with steel gears and steel driveshafts ..on a 6S brushed setup using a cheap drill motor. ( it did require a bit of customizing to fit ) it is quick for a brushed rig . but not brush less fast. any of these rigs will require a Battery and charger .
    .
    For a all around basher rig look at 1/8 scale monster trucks . they are the go anywhere don't need a road bashers... but not the best for crawling .
    no matter what you get it will be a money pit . with upgrades ..ect. so I would save to get what you like the most . the HPI rc line up are decent tough and have good parts support ... their Flux line up is all brushless ( waterproof esc's from the factory ) http://www.hpiracing.com/en/kits/cepf
    .
    IF you want to spend a little now and start collecting parts you could get any of the axial kits ( they come with no electronics... but me and others here can show you how to get it going good for cheap.... or not cheap ...
     
  9. Cameron Haga

    Cameron Haga Studio Forums Elite
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    I found a HPI blitz with a 7.4 10000 mah Lipo . I'm the highest bidder so far or I could grab it for 240 . Good deal ?
     
  10. Y2daT

    Y2daT Over Powered RC
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    IF it is a blitz flux then yes .... if it is just the blitz that is on target with the price
     
  11. Cameron Haga

    Cameron Haga Studio Forums Elite
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    It's a blitz flux . Used but looks clean . Two body's. Tx Rx . Battery. And upgraded front A arms . I would just need a charger for the Lipo . Can you recommend one . Oh and by the way my glow plug showed up and the vortex SS is running . Still have the electric starter on the way . Ill probably keep it .
     
  12. Y2daT

    Y2daT Over Powered RC
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    Double nice. I use the Venom pro2 . it is nice . but the cheaper Imax b6 will do The same thing.
     
  13. Cameron Haga

    Cameron Haga Studio Forums Elite
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    Could anyone tell me why my truck dies (vortex SS ) when I put the break on ?. I tried to trim the throttle and I adjusted the throttle screw .
     
  14. Y2daT

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    watch the throttle with the motor off go full, idle, then brake.... and see if the brake position is dropping the throttle below the idle position ????
     
  15. Cameron Haga

    Cameron Haga Studio Forums Elite
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    It is . When I apply the break it closes carb all the way . Is there a way to lock it there so it can't close all the way ?
     
  16. Y2daT

    Y2daT Over Powered RC
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    there should be a idle screw that prevents the carb from closing .... u should use it to set the idle vs using throttle trim . also if you can turn down the travel on the brakes side of the throttle on the tx it may help ... i think most models do well at 30 -40 % travel on the brakes side .
    .
    do the idle screw setting with the motor warmed up well ,and the throttle trim @ 0 ..... the throttle trim comes in handy for cold starting .... to give it a bit more fuel ... when it warms up return the trim back to 0
     
  17. Cameron Haga

    Cameron Haga Studio Forums Elite
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    So while I was testing earlier my rear diff was making a nasty grinding noise . Sound like it is in the internal planetary gears . I saw on YouTube that I can fill that space with glue and it will lock them in place . Good idea ? Or bad ?
     
  18. Y2daT

    Y2daT Over Powered RC
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    basic tuning .... there should be 3 adjustment screws a L screw a H screw and the idle screw .
    the H screw adjust the top end or wide open tune
    . the L screw adjust the bottom end . use it to get the best acceleration .. knowing which way to turn the screws comes with experience ... but it runs .....
    so you need a thermometer to know if the H screw is correct for the outside air temp .
    some where between 180 F and 240 F is the safe zone ..
    so if you are above 240 you need to make it richer ,or add more fuel by turning out the H screw a bit or if you are below 180 you need to lean it out , or reduce fuel .
    .

    I usually set my H by ear .. you may need to strap the rc on a block of wood or something so the wheels are off the ground and it cannot fall off . and with it running pull the trigger to WOT ( wide open throttle) . now slowly turn out the H screw untill it starts to sound crappy then back in to the point it sounds good again .... un strap it and run it ....
    .
    How is the acceleration ? this is where the L screw comes into play . if it sounds boggy (smokey )
    turn the l screw in a tiny bit and try again .. reapeat..until you get a snappy response . if it just dies out it may be to lean try turning the l screw out ...
    .
    For motor longevity you should run in the rich side of tuning .... in a race you want to be as lean as possible for more power and speed .. but lean means less oil as it is in the fuel ...so engine wear is at its max . so + - 200 deg Fahrenheit on the top end is perfect for play . at the race you want to get close to the 240 mark.
    .
    after setting the H and L screws you want to fine tune the idle .
    .
    After you go through this process a few times it will become easy and like second nature . and you will be good at tuning weed-eaters ,chainsaws and any other 2 stroke motor .... they all work the same tuning wise .
     
  19. Y2daT

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    it will make it positive traction .. so its great for drag racing but bad for handling .
    it can also cause other parts to break .. im locked up on my T3 electric rc and some times spit out the dog bones if the tires grip good enough .
     
  20. Cameron Haga

    Cameron Haga Studio Forums Elite
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    Ill just order new ones . The differential housing is shit and has a lot of slop where the drive cups stick out . I think that's why I ate up the first pinion gear . I think I can get it in aluminum . Thanks for the tuning lesson . I'll post something when the new parts come .
     

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