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SuperVee Nitro to Electric help

Discussion in 'Boat Build Projects' started by RoughCountry, Aug 11, 2017.

  1. RoughCountry

    RoughCountry New Member

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    Hey everyone, i bought a Nitro Super-vee a couple years ago and it never worked for me out of the box, i had problems with the flex shaft spinning out and not holding inside the engine coupler anymore. i only had it running once on land before i took it out and then it gave me trouble and never made it to the water.

    After all these trouble i have decided to rip out the nitro and convert it to electric. My only problem here is what are some good electronics to install in it and best locations for it all to make a good weight distribution.

    i have been looking around for possible motor mounts to secure in or i might just level out the motor and glue it in, then hope that it stays running strong.

    If any of you boat vets out there have some advice that you would like to pass down it would be greatly appreciated thanks!
     
  2. Antho11

    Antho11 Studio Forums Elite
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    I'm not a boat expert but I'll try to help. I've seen people make motor mounts for boats out of a hardware store L bracket, and the bracket is glued to the boat. I just did a quick search and I found that they made a brushless version of the Supervee, if you copy the layout of the electronics you should be good for weight distribution. I'm not sure what electronics would be good.

    @Tombsy is the boat expert in this community, he should be able to help you more.
     
  3. RoughCountry

    RoughCountry New Member

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    cheers for that info i have thought of many different ways to mount the motor and something as simple as a L bracket never popped into my head lol so thanks for that good idea. i do know there is a brushless version of the super-eve but as far as i know they don't make the super-eve model anymore so the electronics i can't but that were used which is fine ill pick up other stuff. as per the lay out i need to make shift a bit more then the brushless due to the way the "framing" was installed from factory to fit the nitro motor and electronics box etc.
     
  4. Tombsy

    Tombsy Boat Racing Fanatic
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    Howdy
    I've rebuilt a couple SV27's, glad to help. I guess I'll just share what I would do to convert it, and you can decide if it's worth it to you or just going for a new RTR boat like a Revolt.
    First off I would strip the hull completely leaving the wood rails. Try to clean as much nitro residue as you can with brake cleaner it will make attaching things easier later.
    In my builds I removed the plastic radio boxes and waterproof the hull and tape the hatch on, you will probably have some air holes in the cowl you'll need to patch.
    The motor mount can either be one that sits between the rails or attached to the bottom. A couple examples:
    https://www.offshoreelectrics.com/proddetail.php?prod=etti-h010
    https://www.offshoreelectrics.com/proddetail.php?prod=aero-1888
    There are some versions of these mounts at Hobbyking and ebay as well.
    If you mount it using the length of the flex cable to dictate the location you can use stock cables and won't have to make custom cables.
    For motor I'd use the Aquacraft 1800kv it's what comes in the electric version and we use it for stock racing in many types of boats, its pretty reliable. For the esc there are a few options, I'd go with the stock 60 amp Aquacraft or a Hobbywing 120. The Aquacraft is pretty robust and can handle more than its rated for giving some room for error from using too big a prop.
    I make a plywood plate to replace the plastic radio box with and make a simple bent aluminum aluminum servo mount.
    IMG_3857.jpg
    The hull will need to be completely waterproofed, the transom hardware should be sealed with GOOP, the waterline for cooling can be sealed with a short piece of brass tubing epoxied in the hole and the waterline zip tied to either end.
    IMG_3860.jpg
    On this boat I added a second water pickup to cool the motor and esc separately.
    You will need a waterproof boot for the rudder link, it can be zip tied to a brass tube epoxied in like these or these that come with a screw-in grommet.
    Batteries can be held in with velcro or battery trays with straps, leaving room to adjust them forward and back. the boat is setup for two 2s packs in series for 4s, but you could probably run it with two 4s packs (in parallel) the boat likes the extra weight it can get a little twitchy a full speed.
    Any extra room in the nose pack it with pool noodle, and attach a piece of foam to the inside of the hatch with GOOP as well, accidents happen, there are a lot of hatches and cowls at the bottom of our pond. :)
    Can't think of much else right now except an antennae mount and maybe a water cooling exit.
    But have a look and decide if its worth it to you to convert it or start with a new boat.
     
    Antho11 likes this.
  5. RoughCountry

    RoughCountry New Member

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    That is a lot of awesome advice and very helpful, thank you very much. it would probably be cheaper almost or the same to get into a new RTR but to me that takes the fun out of the sport and i already have the hull mine as well use what i have and able to say that i but it. One thing for your build what motor mount did you use was it one of the two that you showed me from OSE website? and second with the two 2's what speeds are you hitting i personally don't care to do 60MPH id be happy with half of that my impulse is plenty fast for the speed craving days. Again thanks for all that advice and pictures.
     
  6. Tombsy

    Tombsy Boat Racing Fanatic
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    The motor mount is the stock one that came with the boat, discontinued but there are still some around.
    https://www.ebay.com/p/AquaCraft-Motor-Mount-With-Mounting-Bolts-Sv27-AQUB7887/1900227797
    For speeds it is probably in the 30-35 mph range but it all depends what size prop you run. When you test a prop I usually do a lap and come in right away and check the temps of the motor, esc, and batteries. It's all a trade off, bigger props have higher amp draw but are faster. If you're not racing you can pick a prop that is not crazy fast and not have to worry about burning up you're electronics.
    But the 1800kv motor is meant for 4s, or 2x2s in series.


    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
     
  7. RoughCountry

    RoughCountry New Member

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    perfect thank you again!
     

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