I've been wanting an rc forklift for a while. I had picked up a static Bruder Linde H30 about a year ago, but it's been pretty slow to plan out converting to rc. So I just picked up the NewRay Yale with pallet rack and some cargo. I sometimes run some Yales at work, and it's a little bigger They come set up as 3 channel binary control, runs on 3aa batterys, 9v in the tx. Not that impressive, but fun. I can see why the old reviews on these weren't great when they were yellow and Yale branded. It had weak steering one direction, then it gave out, within a week of getting it. I wasn't planning to upgrade until after the Lebanon IN meet/show, but it changed those plans. Nothing too crazy to start with, 6ch rx, metal gear servo, 2 cheap escs, a blinky rotator light, some 3mm leds, 4aa rx pack. -- I took a look again at the several rc sparks videos of upgrading the Carson h40 Linde they run on the Loading Stuff shows and went similar but different. The small cheap no-name brushed escs are a good fit, it's only pushing 130 motors. Steering servo is just a little mg90s that took a setup i wasn't fully happy with and will probably change if i convert another, but it kept it all below the battery rack and might even get me some high speed wobble. I used a flysky "fs-x6b" rx, and it just happens that board uses the same mount spacing as some posts in the forklift. I don't actually reccomend it since you basically have to make power and ground bus and connect individual signal wires. I like plug&play rx options better. Battery lives up in the forklifts counterweight, i knocked out the seperators and forward wall to shove battery through. Also hogged out the battery cover so i wouldn't need to worry about pinching a wire. Stuck some micro JST connectors on because they look pretty similar to scaled down Anderson PowerPoles. Had to put a yellow beacon on, Safety Third. It's not right to *ever* try to be a spotter for a forklift without having lights shining directly in your eyes, so i drilled out the square housings for some 3mm leds, all wiring routed down a channel in the ROPS and tapped the yellow beacons harness for power with a resistor. White lights and beacon on when model turned on, then beacon switchable modes to help when several run together. It takes 3 screws to split the body off the chassis, and now Light and Battery connectors to completely remove it. Dropped a Bruder figure in the seat, probably needs a seatbelt. It's got a cup holder on the bulkhead, so i opened that up and shaved the bottom of a dollhouse Coke bottle. Had to pop the cap and drill the mouth of the bottle. Think i'm probably going to need to order some decals for this after i paint the black parts. Maybe make a book holder for the seat. Probably some weathering.